2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru "Bougros" (Pre-Arrival)
The 2012 Chablis Bougros is gorgeous in this vintage. Inward, tightly wound and polished, the 2012 is at once intensely mineral and bright in its acidity, but impeccably rich to the point of being nearly seamless. White flowers, crushed rocks and pears flow through to the finish in a Chablis that is both soft and also explosive. Overall, this is fairly accessible Grand Cru that should offer a broad drinking window and, most importantly, considerable pleasure.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
(from a ~6 ha parcel). This is notably more elegant than it usually is with its grudging aromas of white flower, citrus zest, iodine and algae. The muscular and intensely citrus-infused broad-shouldered flavors possess outstanding concentration and focused power before concluding in a bone dry and mineral-driven finish. This is a very big wine even by the outsized standards of the typical Bougros yet save for a slight touch of warmth it maintains near perfect balance.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Those especially partial to bivalvular delicacies should lay in extra bottles. Some six months ahead of bottling, Fevre’s 2012 Chablis Bougros’ nose suggests a greenhouse array of floral and leafy things, accompanied by green tea; then comes to the palate with the generosity that Seguier takes to be typical for these (by local standards) relatively deep, generous soils (the thin, steep Cote de Bouguerots being treated – as at most Chablis estates now – as a separate cru with its own bottling), offering succulent grapefruit, pineapple and white peach backed by textural richness. This isn’t meant to suggest that there is a dearth of elements here that one could call “mineral”: on the contrary, chalky, alkaline, and fusil as well as iodine notes abound, and help memorably extend the wine’s finish. Seguier claims that this site has responded to its biodynamic conversion by displaying more such nuances than before. The present exemplar certainly displays a fine sense of finishing clarity and focus as well as fidelity to the first duty of white wine, refreshment. Look for superb showings through at least 2022.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(recently racked after the late malolactic fermentation): Hazy pale yellow-green. Reticent nose hints at lemon, fresh herbs and a metallic quality. Very closed in the mouth, with a strong lemony cast contributing to the overall impression of tautness. Very juicy, spicy, saline wine with a firm, lightly toasty finish. The soil here is deep, notes Seguier, but the team has been getting smaller yields and more concentrated wines in recent years.
Lean and bracing, offering lemon, apple, honey and flint flavors matched to a vivid structure. Incisive and intense, leaving a chalk-like feel on the palate. Best from 2016 through 2028. (Insider)