1963 Cockburn Vintage Port (Previously $270)
Lighter in color than the other wines in the flight ('47 and '55) and slightly less impressive, with hints of tomato and herb sneaking in. It shows a decent amount of ripe fruit, but it’s harder and more austere than either the '47 or '55, with a greater dependence on dried spices and cocoa in place of fruit. It’s hard to tell whether this wine is in a closed phase or starting to slide. Drink or hold.
Firm healthy ruby, deeper than 1967. Very concentrated and beautifully balanced. Great sweetness and dryness and freshness. Great lift. Utterly flattering. So mellow and far from dying. Long. Edge of ladies handbags; hint of cheesiness. So lively! So complex. Still quite dry on the end but overall delightfully exotic and lively. 19.5/20 points.