2013 Högl Schon Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Wachau (last of vintage) (Previously $28)
Wine & Spirits
Schön is a steep, terraced slope of slate and gneiss rising up behind the Högl winery, at the far western end of the Wachau, where the climate is cool and crisp. That combination of soil and climate created a slim but powerful Federspiel in 2013, dense in its yellow-lentil flavors and firm in its minerality. What’s remarkable is the brightness of its acidity, cleansing and refreshing.
Vibrant melon and citrus bounce out of the glass along with spun tangerine honey and white pepper. Very well balanced with a medium-bodied structure which is a little tight upon opening but expands with air. Decant if drinking in the near term or cellar for 5+ years. Before taking over the family winery, Josef Högl worked the vines of legendary vintners Franz Xavier (F.X.) Pichler and Franz Prager, and there are those who say that his wines already rival those of his employers. Lucky for you, since his name has not attained such superstar status (yet), they can be had at a fraction of the price. Ask anyone who knows their stuff about Austrian wine and they will tell you that Högl has got the stuff.