2010 La Monacesca "Mirum" Verdicchio di Matelica Riserva
Incredible richness of dried papaya and mango with lemon undertones. Peach stone too. Fabulous character of dried fruits and citrus as well as sea salt and oyster shell. Amazing finish.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Green-tinged gold. Musky, lees-accented aromas of yellow apple, melon and cinnamon, with a suggestion of buttered toast. Supple and expansive, offering fresh lime and richer baked apple and guava flavors. Finishes with very good energy and focus, along with a note of vanillin oak. This is an impressively rich white wine, but terroir lovers may find that it fails to evoke Matelica's high-altitude, mineral personality. 90+ (ID)
Real zip and density with a most agreeable blend of richness and structure. Still very young. But should have a long life.
Sometimes those critics aren't correct and miss the picture entirely. Tanzer's Italian reviewer Ian D'Agata writes "along with a note of vanillin oak" — well that must have been left in his glass from the previous wine because these wines don't see any oak at all. He loves the Collestefano Verdicchio di Matelica (as do I) but his claim about the region's character ("terroir lovers may find that it fails to evoke Matelica's high-altitude, mineral personality") I find incorrect as well. Collestefano is like that but every other Matelica Verdicchio I have had shows more richness than a prickly acidity. (Greg St.Clair K&L's Italian Buyer)