2012 Domaine William Fevre Chablis 1er Cru "Domaine Montmains" (Pre-Arrival)
A seamless, beautifully textured wine, the 2012 Chablis Montmains (Domaine) wraps around the palate with gorgeous depth. Here the aromas and flavors are already remarkably integrated to the point the acidity is nearly buried beneath the fruit. The Domaine bottling actually has a bit more acidity than the Maison version, but it is the greater richness of the fruit that stands out most. A rich, deeply layered finish rounds things out in style. This is a terrific showing. The Montmains is 50% Butteaux, 25% Montmains proper and 25% Forets.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
(a domaine wine composed of ~50% Butteaux plus some Forêts and Montmains proper in roughly equal amounts). An airy, elegant and very pure nose offers up notes of ocean breeze, algae, green fruit and floral scents. There is excellent concentration but also fine vibrancy to the well-detailed medium weight flavors that ooze an appealing minerality on the tautly muscular and dry but not especially austere finish. This is a beauty.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(domain version; 50% Butteaux and 25% each Forets and Montmains): Pale, bright greenish-yellow color. Cool aromas of lime ice, fresh herbs and mint. Distinctly more rocky than the fruitier negociant version, offering excellent intensity to its brisk citrus and mineral flavors. Finishes bright, tactile and very long.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The Fevre domaine-bottled 2012 Chablis Montmains – originating, as usual, half in Butteaux, plus Forets and (true) Montmains, and tasted from tank after it had spent time in bottle – displays apple and lemon suffused with chalk and a maritime saline-alkaline minerality and tinged with fusil smokiness. Formidably dense and forcefully persistent, it delivers a fascinating layering of mineral elements in its relatively austere finish. This should prove versatile and resilient through at least 2017, and I suspect it will be more generously expressive after the first couple of years in bottle.