2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru "Montée de Tonnerre" (Pre-Arrival)
The 2012 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre is all about balance. Smoke, ash, graphite, yellow peach inform a tense, powerful Chablis. The wine's dry extract and broad shoulders are almost red wine-like. The 2012 is going to need some time to settle down. Today it is pretty special though, even if the style remains surprisingly muscular and brooding. The lieux-dits are 2/3rds Chapelots and 1/3rd Pied d'Aloup.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
(from two .5 ha parcels divided between 1/3 Pied d’Aloup and the rest from Chapelot). This offers up buckets of Chablis character with its pure aromas of mineral reduction, citrus rind, green fruit and pretty floral scents. There is excellent intensity and real punch to the splendidly detailed medium weight plus flavors that deliver seriously impressive depth on the explosive and bone dry finish. This is almost painfully intense yet there is virtually no austerity and overall, this is quite simply terrific.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Bright green-tinged yellow. Aromas of gunflint, menthol, chalk, white pepper and spices, with a hint of yellow grapefruit. Rich, sappy and impressively dense, with terrific cut to the tightly coiled flavors of pineapple, grapefruit and stone. This taut wine tastes like a baby Clos. The very long, echoing finish displays pungent minerality and outstanding energy.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From tank post-assemblage, the Fevre 2012 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre – as usual, two-thirds from Chapelot, the rest from high-altitude Pied d’Aloue – leads with musky scents of peony along with fresh lime, kirsch and a greenhouse-like array of greenery. Cherry pit and honeydew rind bitterness combine with chalk and stone on a firm, dense, bright palate, leading to a superbly-sustained and multifarious finish, if one missing quite the sense of dynamic and sheer refreshment that accrues in many of the best Chablis from this vintage. Look for this – and the block of chalk at its heart – to open-up and give more of itself over time, and to perform well through at least 2018.