2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis 1er Cru "Vaulorent" (Pre-Arrival)
Allen Meadows - Burghound
(from a huge 3.63 ha parcel out of only 17 ha and most of it is hard by Les Preuses. Séguier calls this their “baby grand cru” as specific barrels are selected for vine age, concentration and power). There is a discreet touch of wood that sets off similar aromas to those of the Fourchaume. The lemony and patently concentrated flavors exude both a fine minerality and plenty of palate coating dry extract before culminating in a bone dry and hugely persistent finish. This is a wine that I buy almost every year and thus know extremely well. One of the things that struck me about the 2012 version is just how powerful it is, indeed this is almost brutal at present though I suspect that it will round out and become more civilized as the élevage progresses.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
As usual, Fevre’s 2012 Chablis Vaulorent – tasted assembled from tank – puts its predecessors in the present line-up into perspective and upholds its reputation as “eighth grand cru” of Chablis. A wealth of mineral allusions – smoke, oyster shell, struck flint, salt, iodine – informs both an intriguing nose and a gloriously mouthwatering palate saturated with fresh citrus, clam juices and oyster liqueur, incorporating an invigorating tang of pineapple close to the core, and persisting with utmost transparency to multifarious mineral elements. The energy conveyed here positively shimmers, yet there is already textural allure to complement the austere and tart aspects of a wine apt to excite through at least 2022.
Fevre's Chablis Vaulorent is explosive on the palate. A rich, layered Chablis, the 2012 is all about texture, volume and depth. Waves of fruit seem to cover every inch of the palate in a creamy, generous Chablis of impeccable class. There is plenty of minerality, but it is nearly buried by the wine's pure opulence and concentration. Fevre works with 9 parcels in Vaulorent, the best are bottled as Vaulorent, the rest are given the broader Fourchaume designation.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Pale, bright yellow-green. High-pitched aromas of lime, white peach, mint and white pepper. Juicy and youthfully imploded, showing strong acidity and terrific citric verve. This is like chewing on grapes today. Shows very strong spine and finishes with superb cut and bracing citrus and saline qualities. Almost painful today, but built for a leisurely evolution in bottle.