2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru "Valmur" (Pre-Arrival)
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(from a crop level of just 18 hectoliters per hectare, according to Didier Seguier): Pale yellow-green. Musky pineapple, lemon, peach, pear, anise and white pepper on the ripe nose. Superconcentrated, tactile and rich; delivers a great expression of fruit supported by powerful minerality and dry extract, but bracing acidity is keeping this wine tightly wound today. Finishes vibrant and very long. A great example of the density of wine that can be produced by light, calcium-rich marly soil.
The 2012 Chablis Valmur opens with a gorgeous, enticing bouquet laced with oyster shells, flowers, lime, green pears and white peaches. Even with tiny yields of just 18 hectoliters per hectare, the 2012 comes across as light on its feet and also somewhat ethereal for Valmur, much of which can be attributed to the location of the Fevre parcels, which sits at the top of the slope. Veins of salinity frame the striking finish in this utterly impeccable, gracious Chablis from Fevre.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
(from a parcel of vines that is close to Vaudésir and extends all the way from Grenouilles to the tree line at the top of the hill; in 2012 yields were only 18 hl/ha). An expressive and elegant nose features notes of salt water, citrus and cool yet ripe green fruit. There is terrific power and concentration to the dense and palate drenching flavors that brim with both minerality and vibrancy before concluding in a borderline painfully intense and explosive finish that is bone dry though not particularly austere. This is a knockout.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Tasted assembled from tank, Fevre’s 2012 Chablis Valmur reflects a yield of just 18 hectoliters per hectare, this parcel’s always shy-bearing vines having – despite their relatively high altitude – been clobbered by frost. Clay-rich soil here typically serves for acid retention and that is certainly apparent. A multiplicity of mineral elements including chalk, salt and fusil oils suffuse a bright matrix of lemon and lime, and the sense of energy conveyed here – along with the wine’s sheer refreshment – is enhanced by an impression of levity that you might imagine more likely from a premier cru. Transparency to nuance insures that I keep finding new features as I return to the glass. Green tea and smoky black tea elements alike add to the complexity of this beauty’s stimulatingly lingering finish. Look for impressive performance through at least 2022. (DS)