2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru "Vaudesirs" (Pre-Arrival)
Allen Meadows - Burghound
(from two separate parcels of vines, the larger of which is in the heart of the “amphitheater” from which the finest examples of Vaudésir originate). There is a background application of wood that frames the notably ripe and borderline exotic yellow orchard fruit nose that is intensely spicy. In the same fashion as the Bougros this is a big and overtly muscular wine though there is a more refined mouth feel to the broad-shouldered flavors that terminate in a lemon and softly mineral finish. This is not overly complex at present but I find that Vaudésir virtually always adds considerable depth with time in bottle.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(cropped at 24 hectoliters per hectare; picked at the beginning of the harvest with 13% potential alcohol): Hazy, pale yellow-green. Brisk, elegant aromas of lime, grapefruit and white pepper. Penetrating and backward, with terrific energy for what Seguier describes as the most sun-drenched terroir in Chablis. Outstanding freshness to the flavors of green melon and crushed stone. Nothing overripe about this wine! Finishes with a bracing metallic quality and superb persistence. This should be a long ager.
One of the more exuberant wines in the range, the 2012 Chablis Vaudesir explodes from the glass with intense tropical fruit, lychee, Chamomile and honey. The Vaudesir is a wine of pure volume and texture. It should drink well pretty early given its considerable richness. Vaudesir was the first parcel harvested in 2012. Alcohols came in around 13%, on the generous side within the context of Fevre Chablis.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Assembled, but six or more months from bottling, the Fevre 2012 Chablis Vaudesir delivers a zesty, piquant combination of lemon and tangerine rinds and pips on the nose as well as a firm, brightly and juicily-citric palate. Its natural 13.2% alcohol is the highest in the present collection, but its acidity is also measurably near, if not at, the top. Alkaline and stony undertones add to the rather austere, forceful finishing impression of a wine almost certainly backward at this point and quite possible set to gain clarity and complexity if not charm during its early years in bottle. I’d plan to follow this through at least 2020. Seguier is of the opinion that already in the course of its elevage, it will go some way toward the grace of the refinement and poise now exhibited by the corresponding 2011.