2012 Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos" (Pre-Arrival)
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(done in 70% oak, with the barrels averaging four or five years of age): Slightly hazy pale yellow-green. Soil-driven scents of citrus peel, anise, spices and white pepper, with a hint of toast; this smells profound. Boasts a silky texture and outstanding volume and power, with powerful concentration to the flavors of lemon, minerals, spices and oregano. Offers a magical combination of richness and precision and a slowly building, extremely long finish. This is plenty taut but the Valmur is even tighter today. Great potential!
Allen Meadows - Burghound
*Don't miss!* (from 4 separate parcels totaling 4.11 ha, 3 of which are all at the top of the slope). There is noticeable wood on the ripe and intensely floral nose that also reflects notes of pear, white peach and algae. This is an imposingly scaled wine with its broad and muscular mouth feel that exudes a seemingly endless reserve of minerality on the almost painfully intense finish that delivers flat out amazing length. This is a very powerful wine that is akin to sucking on rocks it is so mineral-inflected. Brilliant.
A wine of contrasts, the 2012 Chablis Les Clos captures the essence of what makes Clos so compelling at this level. At once massively structured yet also ethereal and elusive, the 2012 Clos is a wine that demands the taster's full attention. The huge, explosive finish is absolutely captivating. Readers will have to give the 2012 time to emerge from its shell, but when it does, it should be spectacular. The 2012 has all the elements to develop into a superb wine, and perhaps something more than that.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The Fevre 2012 Chablis Les Clos – tasted some six or more months ahead of bottling – puts the hierarchy of crus into perspective with a performance of amazing concentration and complexity. A saline and alkaline sea breeze alliance, chalk dust, fresh lemon and tangerine, iris, and greenhouse-like profusion of leafing things leap from the glass. This comes to the palate with exhilarating electric intensity and lift, suffused with mineral elements and lees for a combination of textural caress and density, yet at the same time brightly refreshing in its tart-edged evocation of firm apple and fresh citrus. Oyster liqueur floods the finish with salivary gland-milking concentration even as a torrent of juicy citrus is unleashed. This should remain profoundly memorable through at least 2024. (94-95+, DS)