2004 Jacquesson "Champs Cain" Avize Brut Champagne
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
From vines planted in 1962, the single-vineyard Jacquesson 2004 Extra Brut Avize Champ Cain leads with an utterly remarkable nose. A greenhouse-like profusion of leafing and flowering things is imposed over sea breeze, with jasmine; musky narcissus; nose-prickling spice as if from some exotic orchid; iodine-tinged toasted shrimp shells; and toasted grain all pungently present and anticipating the elusive complexity delivered on a caressingly polished yet consummately refreshing and almost ethereally delicate palate. Over time, the sense of creaminess and the refinement of bubbles became more evident, along with a contrasting impression of enhanced piquancy, suggesting hops and lentil sprouts, all in the context of remarkable poise and transparency to nuance. The endlessly fascinating finish remains infectiously juicy and subtly yet mouthwateringly saline. Lucky owners should plan to follow bottles for at least a decade.
The broad shoulders of Avize come through loud and clear in Jacquesson's 2004 Brut Avize Champ Cain. A rich, creamy wine, the 2004 fills out its frame beautifully. Layers of vanilla, pencil shavings, peach, apricot and white flowers all flesh out in the glass. Rich and powerful the Avize impresses for its intensity and pure pedigree. This is a drop-dead gorgeous wine from Jacquesson. Dosage was 1.5 grams per liter.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(100% chardonnay; disgorged February, 2013): Bright yellow. Smoky, vanilla-accented aromas of pit and orchard fruits and chalky minerals, with a sexy floral nuance in the background. At once fleshy and energetic, offering vibrant, mineral-laced nectarine and bitter pear skin flavors that stain the palate. Closes spicy and very long, with a sexy floral element clinging tenaciously. This Champagne received a very low dosage of 1.5 grams per liter.
This ultra-rare Jacquesson single vineyard won't last long--we only received 12 bottles!