2009 Aldo Conterno "Colonnello" Barolo
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2009 Barolo Colonnello is destined to occupy a special place in my heart as it turned out to be the first sample in my opening blind flight as Italian reviewer with The Wine Advocate. Darkly concentrated and rich, it sets the stage beautifully for 2009 Barolo thanks to its enormous grace, power and elegance. Where it really wins praise, however, is in the mouth. It shows solid grip and firm tannic tenacity that is bold and muscular without going over the top. It moves steadily over the palate in an exceptional manner. The bouquet opens to wild cherry, black licorice and drying notes of crushed white pepper. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2030. (ML)
Alluring and complex aromas of cherry, licorice, sandalwood and leather segue into sweet berry, floral and spice flavors in this red, which is still a bit monolithic, but harmonious and youthful, with a long finish and a spicy aftertaste. Best from 2017 through 2032.
This is rich and layered with such beautiful ripe fruit and chocolate, lightly toasted oak, and flowers. It's full-bodied, with velvety tannins and a long, long finish. There is so much beauty and richness to this. Better in 2015.
A rich, dark sensual wine, the 2009 Barolo Colonnello impresses for its depth. Black cherries, plums, tar, menthol and orange rind emerge gradually as the wine opens up in the glass. With its big, broad shoulders, the 2009 is totally striking in its beauty. The Colonnello is usually one of the more refined wines in the range, but in 2009 it is quite big and powerful. With more air, the wine's underlying minerality comes into focus, adding an element of tension that is highly appealing. In 2009, the Colonnello is remarkably complete and harmonious.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Good bright medium red. Lovely primary aromas of blueberry, mint, violet and rose petal, plus a hint of sexy oak. Sweet, dense and primary on the palate, showing enticing floral lift and minerality to its dense red cherry flavor. Very fresh for 2009. Finishes juicy and gripping, with substantial fine-grained tannins and terrific length. This went into a shell in the glass and will probably require at least seven or eight years of cellaring to approach maturity.