2010 Domaine Bonne Tonne Morgon "Côte du Py"
Wine & Spirits
Based in Morgon, with 15.8 acres of vines in the village, Marcel and Aurélien Grillet farm their vineyard organically and produce three cuvées, including this wine from the volcanic soils of Côte du Py. The aroma is pure spice, rising out of complex, heady tannins in earthy scents of turmeric and roots. Though the wine has powerful density and length, the fruit has yet to fully emerge. You could coax it out with grilled pork, or cellar this for five or six years to let the tannins relent.
Organically grown on steep slopes of schist with manganese. Aged on the lees in Burgundy barrels for 12 months. Bright crimson. Grainy, ripe red cherries on the nose. Pure, lead pencil nose plus sweetness. Lots of depth and matière here. Rather charming already. A definite hint of maraschino. Bitter sweet but a very nice texture. Well done!
The La Bonne Tonne estate has been in the Grillet family for six generations, comprising only 6 hectares in the prestigious Morgon districts of Les Charmes, Grands Cras, and Côte du Py. Marcel Grillet took over in 1975, with the goal of making quality -- not quantity -- Beaujolais. Together with his son Aurélien, they began the conversion to 100% organic production in 2003 and achieved certification in 2006, making them among the few estate-grown and bottled certified organic producers in Beajolais. This is from the Cote du Py, the hill of Morgon. On its south face, the Grillets farm 1 ha of 60 year-old Gamay vines planted to the blue granite and schist soils found here, high-draining soils which also contain volcanic rock and minerals, most notably iron and manganese. The Grillets follow very natural practices, plowing by horse and harvesting by hand. For the 2010 "Côe du Py", a native yeast fermentation was followed by aging for eighteen months in neutral barrel, and the wine bottled unfiltered, with very little sulfur added (only 2 g/hl - tiny compared to the average wine in the market!). Domaine Bonne Tonne is currently in the process of full biodynamic conversion.