2011 Zidarich Vitovska Verde
Wine & Spirits
Vitovska and Carso are inseparable in this wine, as if the vine transformed the coastal limestone into an exotic fruit. Its scents of honey have the sweet earthiness of a freshly dug parsnip; its flavors of pear and piecrust make an impression that lasts.
Here's a wine that leads you off the map. The Zidarich "green label" is sourced from younger vines of the autochthonous Vitovska variety. In a review of February 2012, the Wine Advocate rated the 2009 vintage 93 points, and added: "Vitovska bursts onto the palate with a rush of ripe, expressive fruit....GPS isn't much use in the Carso, one of the most remote corners of Friuli. This rugged stretch of mountains lies above Trieste, with views of the ocean and a microclimate that is very much its own. Beniamino Zidarich somehow managed to paintakingly carve a multi-level cellar out of the rock. But it is really the wines that are most notable. Over the years, Zidarich has fine-tuned his approach and it shows. Zidarich ferments his whites with some skin contact, but prefers to keep that time shorter than many of his colleagues who have adopted a similar approach. Zidarich is one of the most exciting growers in Italy. His wines merit serious attention. A visit to Zidarich is essential for anyone who has a serious interest in the wines, people and culture of the Carso."