2009 Caves Jean Bourdy Côtes du Jura Rouge
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Wines from Jean-Francois Bourdy's small cellar in Arlay have been trickling into the world’s wine markets with increasing regularity over the past decade (though there is a history of these wines in the U.S. even before World War II), causing considerable waves, an American fan club having accumulated, with buzz centering understandably around the Bourdys' huge assortment of vintages spanning well more than a century. What I tasted on the occasion of my November visit, however, was (with one memorable, antique exception) a small collection constituting the estate’s most recent releases rather than library wines, and whose quality was fine if not extraordinary. There can, however, be little question that Bourdy is very serious about achieving high quality the hard way. He was certified biodynamic in 2006, and he insists that what he and his brother Jean-Philippe are bottling today from the family's 25 acres of vines will stand the test of time just as well as have the ancient wines on which he claims to - 'with no adaptation,' as he puts it - explicitly model his contemporary vinification."