2003 Dom Pérignon "Koons" Brut Rosé Champagne
**Collectibles** The whole is greater than the sum of the parts in this harmonious version. A delicate bead caresses the mouth, while flavors of currant pâte de fruit, dried apricot, pastry and pickled ginger expand on the palate. Subtly floral, with a fine frame of acidity driving this to the mouthwatering finish of smoky mineral and dried fruit. Drink now through 2030.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
What’s more, the price-quality rapport here is excellent by any Champagne standards, and puts that of many a prestige cuvee to shame. Moet’s 2003 Brut Rose Dom Perignon exhibits both richness and robustness reflecting its torrid vintage, yet manages to stint neither on primary juiciness nor transparency to nuance; nor does it come off as at all heavy. Lightly cooked ripe strawberry and fig infused with rose hip, licorice, Ceylon tea, heliotrope and leather inform a delightfully forward nose and lush, effusively fruity palate. A tart and seedy edge to the strawberry serves for invigoration; and lobster shell reduction serves for mouthwatering salinity and somehow downright sweet animal savor. There is a hint of tannin, but it is fine-grained and suggestive of structural support. A long, seductively rich finish manages to harbor not just the immediately aforementioned virtues, but also a sense of transparency to floral and tea-like nuances and to virtually shimmering stoniness. This alluring and distinctive beauty should be worth following for at least the next half dozen years.
The 2003 Dom Pérignon Rosé is another wine that has come together quite nicely over the last few months. Given the exuberance and sheer vinosity of the 2000 and the 2002, along with the ripeness of the year, and the heft of the 2003 Blanc, I expected the 2003 Rosé to be a much bigger wine. Instead, it is surprisingly delicate and medium in body. Dried flowers, crushed raspberries and sweet herbs waft from the glass in a Rosé that is all about sensuality. With time in the glass, the richness of the fruit becomes more pronounced, while the tannin from the red grapes is also noticeable. I would prefer to cellar the 2000 and 2002, and drink the 2003 sooner rather than later.
This collector's edition of Dom Pérignon Rosé is tucked into a gift box designed by the artist Jeff Koons. The exterior of the box has photos of the sculpture Koons created for Dom Pérignon, called the Ballon Venus, with a reflection of the artist's studio visible on the surface of the sculpture's shiny curves. The inside of the box is designed to mimic the iridescent interior of the original sculpture. The bottle itself incorporates the sculpture's radiant magenta color on both the foil and the iconic Dom shield.