2009 Goyo García Viadero "Finca Valdeolmos" Ribera del Duero
Wine & Spirits
It may be true: This does not smell like most other Ribera del Duero wines…but there is beauty in that difference. Here’s a Ribera with the logic of a Burgundy, its dark fruit scented with floral notes, juicy, tense and electric. With air the black cherry flavors turn slightly meaty, lasting deep and long with earthy complexity. It comes off old tinto fino vines (and five percent albillo) planted on clay soils mixed with gravel and lime.
Goyo Garcia Viadero belongs to a storied wine family; together with his sister Yolanda he owns Bodegas Valduero, one of the original wineries to form the Ribera del Duero D.O. back in the early 1980s. While he has made wine at Valduero for a number of years, and continues to help out there, his main focus these days is on his own label, producing Ribera del Duero wines that absolutely sing with intense Tempranillo flavors complicated by unusually high levels of acidity and subtle, enveloping aromatics. How does Goyo do it? Only using fruit from very old, "en vaso" trained vines, harvesting for acidity (as opposed to looking primarily for ripeness), co-fermenting with white grape varieties (as was traditionally done in this and many other regions up until fairly recently), using only older barrels ("a new barrel for me is around 5 years old," says Goyo) and eliminating the usage of SO2 during elevage are just some of his secrets. Produced from a small, sandy, limestone rich plot of 80+ year-old Tempranillo and Albillo vines (co-fermented with the Tempranillo), this wine shows similarly bright, intense dark fruit to Finca El Peruco, but perhaps with more open, attention grabbing aromatics. This may reflect the site, the warm and dry 2009 vintage, a year extra in bottle, or a combination of the three. Either way, the wine shows terrifically now though it is still very youthful and will improve immensely with time. (Joe Manekin, K&L Spanish wine buyer)