2012 Hiedler "Löss" Grüner Veltliner Kamptal
Wine & Spirits
At first this feels as though it’s hunkered down in the loess, the wine earthy and soft. Then it revs up, the sappy green fruit taking off along an arc of sweet spice and never stopping.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Brightly juicy and tinged with pip and pit bitterness, the Hiedler 2012 Gruner Veltliner Loess even suggests a hint of green apple despite its presumed analytical absence of malic acid. Pungent herbs and incisive cress lend invigoration to the pointed and refreshing finish of a wine that comes off rather like a hybrid Riesling-Gruner Veltliner, and which I would drink for its pep and cut within the next couple of years. Even here, though, there is a pleasant suggestion of estate-typical glossiness of texture. (DS)
"Amazing values for chewy, ample wines with old-fashioned meat on 'em," say the folks at Wine Wise, Hiedler's importer, and we couldn't agree more. A pure lentilly fragrance; textbook loess-grown Gruner; juicy vibrant citrus fruit laced with pepper and spice and a sweet aloe perfume emerges with air; the palate has a finely layered texture between leaf and a deep mineral core of crushed stones; it's open and playful and even intricate ... amazing articulation and diction for an "everyday" wine; you can taste the tiny veins on the underside of a leaf. Clear, precise finish that is refreshing and long.