2007 Hugel "Jubilée" Gewürztraminer
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Deep straw-yellow. Subtle, reticent nose hints at smoked meat and dusty brown spices. Fat, dense and deep, with an enticing deep sweetness currently masking the wine's inherent complexity. With time in the glass, this exploded with spices. An extremely young wine with impressive power and length. This clocks in at 14.5% alcohol, the highest ever for this bottling. 91(+?) points
This delicate version displays good concentration nonetheless, and finely tuned acidity defines flavors of apricot, melon rind, lychee, lemon curd, anise and salty mineral. Hints of wax and nut show some age, but this is still sleek and vibrant. Aging nicely. Drink now through 2020.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Originating primarily in the clay-rich, Grand Cru-rated Sporen, Hugel’s 2007 Gewurztraminer Jubilee leads with mint, sweet pea, and rose petal, all of which set the tone for an oily, rich, yet metaphorically-speaking cooling, soothing palate impression, ironic in view of the fact that -- at 14.5% alcohol -- the wine sets a record for this cuvee. Underlying meat stock and smoky peat add depth, and a burst of brown spices informs a finish in which I can find no heat. (DS)
A mature Gewürztraminer like this shows the richness of the grape and how the spice mellows as it ages. This is intense and rounded, with a streak of acidity adding freshness. Ready to drink now.