2004 Pierre Moncuit "Cuvée Nicole Moncuit Vieilles Vignes" Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Rendered from 90-year-old vines in Les Chetillons, the Moncuits’ 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs Nicole is fascinatingly scented with roasted pumpkin and hints of caramel that re-emerge as salted caramel and nougat on the polished palate. At the same time, intimations of fresh lime and pineapple in the nose manifest themselves in lusciously juicy, downright vivacious profusion on the palate. The tension between richness and cut mirrors that between subtly confectionary and vivaciously citric, yet somehow it’s 100% productive rather than at all discordant. The tang of candied lime rind and of pineapple close to the core; piquant yet soothing, sweetly suggestive nut creams; and saliva-liberating salinity joined to maritime alkalinity combine for a sensationally sustained finish. Follow this head-turner over the coming decade.
The 2004 Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Cuvee Nicole Moncuit VV is a little more structured and implosive than the Brut Blanc de Blancs Gran Cru. Still quite primary, the VV is going to need at least another year or two in bottle for the aromatics to fully develop, especially for readers who appreciate tertiary nuances. Today the 2004 VV is all about fruit and structure, both of which it has in spades. Dosage was 8 grams per liter.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Bright yellow. Light yellow-gold. Intense pear and melon aromas are brightened by notes of ginger, jasmine and smoky minerals. Ripe, fleshy and expansive, offering pliant orchard and pit fruit flavors and a hint of anise. Rich yet lively wine with excellent finishing clarity, thrust and mineral-driven persistence.
Dosage 7 g/l. Seems to show a little more fruit on the nose than the Non Dosé 2005, certainly less immediate yeastiness and even a light white pepper spice. Complex aroma. The palate is rich, creamy and full of lovely bready depth, sweet brioche on the finish. There's fine acidity in the middle and then a surprising apparent softness on the finish. Very moreish.