2005 Jean Michel Gaunoux Meursault 1er Cru "Gouttes d'Or"
Allen Meadows - Burghound
This domaine is not a regular stop on my travels in Burgundy for the simple reason that they, like Domaine Robert Ampeau, don't allow for tasting from barrel. They have a policy of releasing wines after several years in bottle and sometimes, after several decades. The history of the domaine is an interesting one and in a sense, is a microcosm of Burgundian succession issues. The domaine was originally founded by Alexandre Gaunoux in 1885 and the vineyard holdings were slowly accumulated. The first was the parcel of Grand Epenots, followed by the Rugiens in 1940 and the Renardes in 1957. Other bits and pieces were added here and there and include the Pommard 1ers of Arvelets, Charmots and Combes as well as four different parcels in Beaune. Michel Gaunoux started at the domaine in 1957 and worked there until he passed away in 1983. His wife knew little about running a domaine but rather than give the 7.5 ha of prime old-vine vineyards to other extended family members or sell out, she decided to operate it herself along with the domaine's long-time cellar master. Things changed in 1990 as her son Alexandre took over responsibility for day to day operations (which includes the winemaking) though Mme Gaunoux is still very much involved.
Very rich and unctious, but fresh and delightful at the same time. Classic Meursault, in terrific sahpe, recently released from the winery, so it has perfect provenance. Want to try an older white Burgundy, but do not want to risk bad storage having ruined a white wine? well, here is your chance to do so. Drink it and enjoy. (Keith Wollenberg, K&L Burgundy Buyer, 02/2013)