2009 Bodegas Volver "Tarima Hill" Alicante
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2009 Tarima Hill reveals sumptuous aromas of camphor, sweet, smoky oak, blackberry and blueberry liqueur, and crushed rocks. Deep and full-bodied with silky tannins and a long finish, this beauty was aged in 100% French oak for 20 months. Bodega Volver, a joint project between Rafael Canizares and Jorge Ordonez, produces wines from three appellations, La Mancha, Alicante and Jumilla... Slightly more expensive are the 2010 and 2009 Tarima Hill. These cuvees come from the winery’s oldest vines (20 acres of ungrafted vines that were planted in 1935) planted on the highest elevations.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
(100% monastrell): Vivid ruby. Sexy black raspberry and oak spices on the nose, with notes of fresh rose and anise adding complexity. Sweet, sappy and expansive, offering lively dark berry preserve flavors and a velour-like texture. Graceful and balanced but also packs a punch. Finishes smooth, spicy and quite long.
Volver's Tarima Hill vineyard is planted with 40-75 year old Monastrell (Mourvedre) vines which are pruned low to the ground and dry-farmed. These vines handle the wild summer day/night temperature swings and lack of rainfall beautifully. The Alicante region is less famous than some other regions in Spain such as Rioja, but its grape growing history dates back to Roman times, and probably as far back as the earliest eras of recorded history.