2011 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
A riveting, high-toned aromatic diversity announces the Donnhoff 2011 Niederhauser Hermannshohle Riesling Spatlese with themes that inform an at once creamy yet subtly tannic and vibrant palate: quince, pear, lychee, nut oils, fusel oils, distilled herbal essences, brown spices, and smoky black tea. This behaves as if a bit of Traminer had been blended-in. The rich nuttiness and glaze of honey as well as sheer succulence of fruit make for a more opulent performance than that of Brucke, but to say that this is less energetic or dynamic would be misleading. Its incessant interplay of elements is utterly kaleidoscopic -- just more calmly harmonious than the Spatlese from next door. Like that sibling, this deserves to be followed for a good quarter-century.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Delicately refined aromas of pineapple, quince and herbs. The refreshing palate offers a subtle interplay of ripe citrus fruits and salty minerality. A pure and expressive finish provides stature. I may be underrating this, but it's certainly one of the great spatleses of the vintage.
The ripe melon and jellied citrus flavors are well-concentrated in this effusive style. Saline notes match up with white pepper accents, finishing with dried mango and plenty of spice. Drink now through 2035.
Riper on the nose than the Leistenberg Kabinett. It's minerally too but there's a lightly floral touch. Classic Nahe purity and elegance. Seems surprisingly gentle and approachable. Quite sweet, with the acidity and sweetness needing time to meld. Fine length.