2005 Aldo Conterno "Cicala" Barolo (1.5L)
Strawberry pie and cream aromas lead to a full-bodied palate. Very thick and powerful, with big, velvety tannins and masses of fruit. A blockbuster style. Best after 2013.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The estate’s 2005 Barolo Cicala is a transparent, mid-weight wine redolent of dark fruit, spices, minerals and licorice, all of which come together in the glass with superb elegance. Here the tannins are decidedly firmer and bigger than in the Colonello, even though the vineyards are just a few hundred meters apart! This powerful yet harmonious wine is simply radiant in its beauty. All that it needs is a little patience. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. (AG)
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Good full medium red. Wild aromas of redcurrant, black cherry, tar and leather; this smells tannic but the fruit element expands impressively as the wine opens in the glass. Then large-scaled and firm in the mouth, with powerful acidity currently suppressing the wine's sweetness. There's a boatload of fruit here, but today the wine's mineral and gamey elements dominate. In a very traditional style, and completely different from the Colonnello: more backward and more masculine (Conterno refers to it as 'our rude boy'). The serious tannins build with air and currently cut off the wine's finishing fruit.
"Aldo Conterno is back," writes Antonio Galloni. "After a period of inconsistent wines ...Conterno once again takes its place among the region's top producers. Today the estate is run by Aldo Conterno's three sons Giacomo, Franco and Stefano Conterno who look after vineyards, marketing, and winemaking respectively. Based on the wines I have tasted recently this venerable property looks to be in great hands for the future...The 2005 Barolos represent a new point of arrival after the estate embarked on a major rethinking of its work in the vineyards in the late 1990s, which involved among other things shorter winter pruning (designed to lower yields naturally) and a greater amount of attention to canopy management...These gorgeous, uplifting 2005 Barolos firmed up quite a bit in the glass, suggesting they are headed for a slumber that hopefully won't last too long, as the wines are truly special. Stylistically the wines are made in the medium-bodied style that is characteristic of the 2005 Barolos, but offer terrific harmony and drinkability." (Wine Advocate, 4/2009)