2005 Aldo Conterno Barolo (Elsewhere $59)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2005 Barolo offers up gorgeous aromas that literally fill the room with intense perfume. This finessed, mid-weight wine reveals superb purity to its primary, fresh fruit in an ethereal style. Finessed tannins round out this complete Barolo. The wine clamped up quickly in the glass, but it should be beautiful in another year or so. Beginning with the 2004, Conterno’s Barolo contains 20% fruit from Barolo in addition to the Bussia fruit that made up the wine in previous vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Moderately saturated medium red. Scented nose of strawberry and dried flowers. Very fresh and nicely delineated, with harmonious acidity framing the flavors of red fruits, flowers, licorice and spices. Not especially deep or fleshy but attractive, brisk and youthful. Finishes with dusty tannins and lingering spiciness.
Dried berry on the nose, with coffee bean, new leather and flowers. Medium- to full-bodied, with fine tannins and a long, caressing finish. Subtle and classy. Builds on the palate.
"Aldo Conterno is back," writes Wine Advocate's Antonio Galloni. "After a period of inconsistent wines ...Conterno once again takes its place among the region's top producers. Today the estate is run by Aldo Conterno's three sons Giacomo, Franco and Stefano Conterno who look after vineyards, marketing, and winemaking respectively. Based on the wines I have tasted recently this venerable property looks to be in great hands for the future...The 2005 Barolos represent a new point of arrival after the estate embarked on a major rethinking of its work in the vineyards in the late 1990s, which involved among other things shorter winter pruning (designed to lower yields naturally) and a greater amount of attention to canopy management...These gorgeous, uplifting 2005 Barolos firmed up quite a bit in the glass, suggesting they are headed for a slumber that hopefully won't last too long, as the wines are truly special. Stylistically the wines are made in the medium-bodied style that is characteristic of the 2005 Barolos, but offer terrific harmony and drinkability." (04/2009)