2011 Keller "Estate" Riesling Trocken
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Keller's generic 2011 Riesling trocken delivers pungently stimulating apple skin and lemon zest within a juicy, subtly spritzy fresh fruit matrix, and manages to be attractively mouth-filling while (at 12.5% alcohol) preserving a delightful sense of buoyancy. Salt, stone, and fruit pit help extend a refreshing finish. While the 26,000 bottles of this outstanding value - comprised to a significant degree of fruits of -pre-harvest- in the estate's top sites - are meant for and very much succeeds in delivering immediate pleasure, this wine will doubtless remain delicious for several years and quite possibly become even more interesting. "You're bound to get a bargain in this price segment this year," remarks Keller with a grin, "because there wasn't much lesser raw material to divert there."
Keller's "basic" Riesling comes from vineyards in and around Dalsheim, planted in six different types of soil. It's a great expression of the Rheinhessen, summed up best by the importer. "There is nothing 'basic' about the basic bottling of Riesling Trocken from Klaus-Peter Keller this year, as this 12% alcohol wine is the epitome of breed and zesty purity. The really lovely nose wafts from the glass in a mix of tart orange, a touch of wild yeasts, pink grapefruit, complex minerality, petrol and lemongrass. On the palate the wine is deep, fullish, pure and truly dancing, with a superb core of fruit, ripe acids and outstanding length and grip on the focused and youthful finish. Fine juice."