2010 Domaine du Pégaü "Cuvée Réservée" Châteauneuf-du-Pape (Pre-Arrival)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Looking at the 2010s and a brilliant vintage for Laurence, the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape offers up classic Pegau aromas and flavors of ripe dark fruits, garrigue, cured meats, tobacco leaf, saddle leather and hints of game. Full-bodied and beautifully concentrated, it offers a seamless, layered profile on the palate with thrilling mid-palate depth, sweet, yet substantial tannin, and a blockbuster finish that stays fresh and beautifully focused. Quite polished by this estates standards, it nevertheless screams southern France and I doubt it’s possible to have too much of this beauty in the cellar. It will absolutely thrill over the coming 2-3 decades. Drink 2016-2030. (JD)
*Collectibles and #7 on Top 100 Wines of 2013* Intense, with the tarry, bittersweet cocoa-fueled grip of the vintage running through a well-endowed core of crushed plum, blackberry paste and braised fig. The muscular finish picks up notes of brick dust, pepper, warm chestnut leaf and smoldering charcoal. A throwback profile, with a hyperripe core of fruit—and it works. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and others. Best from 2015 through 2035. (JM)
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Deep ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes dried cherry, cassis, potpourri and smoked meat, with a spicy nuance adding vivacity. Rich but energetic on the palate, offering sweet dark fruit flavors and notes of candied lavender and anise. Chewy tannins add grip to a long, smoky and powerful finish, which leaves a bitter cherry note behind. Definitely built for the long haul; don't touch this wine for at least six or seven years. (JR)
Wine & Spirits
Laurence Féraud blends this wine from a number of parcels spread throughout the appellation, the average age of the vines around 30 years. It’s an elegant Châteauneuf, the grenache singing out in bell tones of cherry, herbal notes giving it coolness and restraint. The tannins are ferrous but fine, with a tenacity that holds the wine’s freshness for days after opening—and should hold it in the cellar for another six years at least.
*Cellar Selection* At the moment, the 2010 Réservée is intense but moody, showing a smoky, gamy, feral side. The fruit is subdued but concentrated, picking up multiple earthy, spicy nuances including iodine and licorice. It's a big wine, with chewy tannins that leave the impression of fine suede behind on the long finish. Give it another five years in the cellar. (JC)
The final blend had not been assembled when I visited Laurence Feraud, still in her jodphurs and with a large truck awaiting her completion of the paperwork. Her son was detailed to give me a tasting of this unracked wine from cask in their sprawling cellars. Very dense mulberry fruit. Tarry almost - certainly in terms of colour - and yet this wine seems to have real freshness and raciness to it. Quite an achievement! 18/20 points.
Paul Feraud's daughter Laurence Feraud now runs this 50-acre family estate. "As I have written many times in the past, Domaine du Pegau is well-known as one of the reference points for traditionally styled wines," writes Robert Parker in the Wine Advocate (10/2012).