By: John Majeski | K&L Staff Member | Review Date: 2/28/2012 | Send Email
We don't yet carry any African wines in our stores, but we do have several wines that could, but for the lingering effects of Spanish colonialism, qualify. I'm referring to the Canary Islands, those lovely volcanic sprouts off the coast of Morocco, where they make wines that are, by both taste and appearance (eerie lunar landscape), out of this world. Ravaged by wind and about as barren as a hairless Chihuahua, these virtually desert islands harbor many rare, ungrafted grape varieties that might make a wine geek forget to spit. Richmond-based importer Jose Pastor must get enormous credit for discovering and going to such great lengths to bring these exotic wines to our shores. I recently tasted the 2009 Fronton De Oro Tintilla Gran Canaria and almost entered a spacetime vortex as the wine aggregated and resonated on my palate, transporting me to an arid spot of volcanic rock where few if any canaries actually perch. The luminous wine tasted of red berries, dried roses, potpourri, tobacco and, um, meteorites (ok, I have yet to lick a meteorite, but think how they must taste, of otherworldly iron and rust)...