2000 Bacalhoa Moscatel Roxo Moscatel de Setúbal
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2000 Moscatel Roxo, a variant of the signature sweet grape of this region that the winemaker says is somewhat less bitter in profile, shows beautifully here. Coming in at 18.5% alcohol, this holds its alcohol beautifully. It is gorgeous and beautifully balanced, sweet, with fine acidity cutting through the controlled richness and sugar. As my reports have shown of late, these age a long, long while, so take the drinking windows just as a placeholder to indicate that “these age a long, long while.” Drink now-2040.
A specialty of the hotter, southern portion of Portugal, Moscatel de Setúbal is sweet, fortified, barrel aged wine made from the local variety of Moscatel. This particular bottling is made from the roxo variety of moscatel, and sees 8 years of oak ageing prior to bottling. Rich and expansive flavors of dried dates and honey show themselves, as well as a delicious, oxidative character not totally dissimlar to tawny port. The main difference is the honeyed, orange blossom fruit quality given that moscatel is used. This is a delicious way to end a meal, accompany a chocolate dessert, or to enjoy with your choice of cookies alongside an afternoon coffee. Delicious!