2010 Edi Keber Collio Bianco
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Good, pale green-tinged yellow. Strong iodine and sulfide tones complicate bright lemon, grapefruit and dried herb aromas, with a delicate smokiness adding depth. Pear, underripe apricot and nectarine flavors are powerful and precise, with strong mineral and floral undertones. Finishes sharply focused, with vivid lingering minerality. Edi Keber is so intent on bringing forth the unique terroir of the Collio (and his micro-area is even more unique, in that the hamlet of Zegla is associated with some of the region's most mineral wines of all) that he has even removed the word Bianco from his wine, limiting the name to the barest essence of its location.
Edi Keber, viticulturalist of Zegla in the area of Collio, a few meters from Brda, Slovenia, is one of the mavericks of this territory. The excellent quality of his wines runs parallel with the volcanic character of this farmer. The year 2008 marked a momentous milestone for Keber as the azienda decided to commit to the production of a single white grape wine, the Collio, a blend of three varieties: Friulano for structure, Malvasia Istriana for its aromatic qualities, and Ribolla Gialla for acidity, lending to the production of a wine with remarkable weight, body and a distinctive minerality typical of the region. Fresh, slightly herbal aromas backed with citrus notes, lead to a crisp aromatic wine with notes of straw and grass. This is a refreshing and beautifully structured white wine.