Gonzalez Byass "Matusalem" Oloroso VORS (375ml)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The NV Matusalem 30 Anos Oloroso VORS used to be sold as Oloroso Dulce, but this category is no more contemplated by the appellation, so technically it will be a Cream, but that’s a category that has some not-so-positive connotations in certain markets. Anyway, it is produced with 75% Palomino and 25% Pedro Ximenez grapes. The solera dates from 1847, and the bottled wine is on average 30 years old. The palate is very sweet, with the Oloroso character fighting hard not to be dominated by the typical flavors of Pedro Ximenez, dry figs, coffee, arrope, and feels low in acidity and quite dense. This could work with soft-paste cheeses or desserts rather than with salty dishes. Gonzalez Byass is one of the greatest, historical names in Sherry (and Brandy), as well as the largest in Jerez, and the Tio Pepe brand and image one of the icons of Spain, and the best selling Fino in the world stored in an impressive solera of 30,000 botas. Moreover, it’s one of the few large Sherry companies still family-owned and managed. (LG)
Wine & Spirits
Built on layers of sweet flavor, this wine offers a playful acidity that moves effortlessly through notes of figs, cinnamon, dried fruits and chocolate. The limestone minerality slowly superimposes itself over the sweetness, leaving a soft, gently saline finish. For Roquefort or other blue cheeses.
Exotic aromas of fig pudding, prune and cocoa bean aren't just soft and sweet; there's edge and angle to this wine, with plenty of acidity at the core along with coffee and chocolate.
Walnut, halva, raisin and buckwheat honey notes are layered, backed by hints of bitter almond and toasted pecan. Shows good energy for a cream style, with the bitter edge imparting length and cut. (JM)
This sweet Oloroso is crazy good. Off-the-charts, off-the-meter, off-the-hinges good. Excuse the turns of phrase, but the fact is that this Oloroso combines sweetness from a 25% dollop of Pedro Ximenez with the very high acidity of some older barrels of Oloroso, along with all of the requisite deeply burnished, wood-influenced nuttiness and slight rancio character that a VORS (Sherry averaging at least 30 years of age) Oloroso should have. I would be hard pressed to think of a tastier, or classier, sweet after-dinner digestive than this. (Joe Manekin, K&L Sherry Buyer)