2009 Domaine de la Mordorée "Reine des Bois" Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Pre-Arrival, Elsewhere $80)

A blockbuster-styled effort, the 2009 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee de La Reine des Bois doesn’t pull any punches and gives up rocking aromas and flavors of black raspberry, cassis, graphite, spice-box, lavender and herbs. Possessing full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and thrilling purity, it can be enjoyed now for its exuberant character, but will also evolve gracefully going forward. As I wrote in the intro for this domaine last year, Domaine de la Mordoree is a reference point estate for Chateauneuf du Pape. Run by the talented brother duo of Fabrice and Christophe Delorme, with Christophe making the wines, they produce a relatively modern-styled Chateauneuf, as well as more than noteworthy Liracs and Tavels. (JD) (8/2014)

Vivid ruby. Deeply pitched black raspberry, cherry and floral aromas are brightened by notes of Asian spices and minerals. Rich and fleshy but shockingly lithe, offering juicy red and dark berry compote flavors and complicating notes of candied lavender and allspice. Finishes sweet and long, with outstanding clarity and persistence. (1/2012)

Very youthful, with lots of exuberant, richly layered blackberry, boysenberry, cassis and plum fruit flavors. The solid structure is buried deep on the spice- and anise-filled finish. Flashy, but has the stuffing to unwind nicely in the cellar. Best from 2012 through 2025. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 2,000 cases made. (6/2011)

As usual at this young age, the new oak used for aging this cuvée stands out a bit, giving the plummy fruit aromas a cedary, menthol-tinged veneer. But on the palate the wine shines, from its expansive, creamy mouthfeel to the captivating flavors of brandied cherries and powdered cinnamon. Drink now–2020. (7/2012)