2007 Domaine du Vieux Télégraphe "La Crau" Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 2007 Vieux Telegraphe may be the greatest wine made at this property since the 2005 and 1998. Dense ruby/purple-tinged with an exquisite nose of salty sea breezes, licorice, ground pepper, jammy black cherries, black currants, figs, and plums, this is a full-bodied, rich, Provencal-styled offering with lots of sweet, ripe tannin. It is surprisingly accessible for a Vieux Telegraphe (this wine normally shuts down several years after bottling), but it should have great longevity (25+ years) given its power, full-bodied mouthfeel, and enormous length and richness. This is a brilliant effort from brothers Frederic and Daniel Brunier. (96+, RP)
#3 Wine Spectator's Top 100 Wines 2009, Highly Recommended* Packed, in a brawny, muscular style atypical for this lush vintage, with a gravelly undertow to the currant paste, braised fig and dark licorice notes. Picks up even more steam on the finish, with grilled mesquite, mineral and garrigue notes and a long, hot stone filled finish. Best from 2010 through 2030.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Glass-staining ruby. Highly pungent bouquet offers black fruit compote, olive and floral qualities, along with a slightly high-toned quality that recedes with air. The palate-coating, deeply concentrated cassis and blackberry flavors display a slow-mounting spiciness. Pretty powerful for a wine from this estate, showing more heft and dark fruit character than usual. The finish is broad, velvety and impressively persistent. Long-time fans of this property's usually elegant style might not be over the moon for this wine's virility.