2007 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos"
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Bright yellow. Subtly complex nose melds Asian pear, violet, lavender, ginger, iodine and powdered stone. Tactile and dense on entry, then creamy in the middle, conveying an impression of great volume without weight. This extremely backward, youthfully understated Clos firms up dramatically on the back end, finishing with palate-saturating citrus and talc flavors that refuse to fade. One of the longest Chablis bottlings I tasted for this issue, this truly transcends Chardonnay. 96+ (ST)
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Like this year’s La Forest, Dauvissat’s 2007 Chablis Les Clos seems palpably stony and chalky, yet boasts considerable gloss. It also displays a mollusk broth like dimension, here allied to sense of weight and sheer extract that none of the premier crus in this collection can claim. Hints of lanolin and vanilla make one aware of the barrel presence, and a toasted nut element helps lend a sense of richness as well as piquancy to what is otherwise a decidedly mineral-dominated as well as formidably long finish. It’s hard to imagine this (by Dauvissat’s own admission) massively dense wine ever achieving the elegance or mystery of the La Forest – let’s see in a few years – but as an expression of Kimmeridgian essence, it’s quite an achievement, and one sure to merit a dozen or more years’ attention. (DS)
On the lean side, focused and intense, this white offers more mineral and chalk elements than lemony fruit. That said, this is balanced between fruit, mineral, structural and textural components, showing tremendous dry extract and a long finish. Best from 2012 through 2030. (Web Only—2010)
Allen Meadows - Burghound
A gorgeously fresh and instantly recognizable nose reflects clear Chablis characters that include mineral reduction, oyster shell, sea breeze and discreet notes of iodine. The Chablis character continues onto the chiseled, intense and stony middle weight flavors that possess strikingly good focus and punch before culminating in a balanced and explosively long finish. This is a stunner of a wine and still very much on the way up.