2007 Domaine Vincent Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos"
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Bright yellow. Subtly complex nose melds Asian pear, violet, lavender, ginger, iodine and powdered stone. Tactile and dense on entry, then creamy in the middle, conveying an impression of great volume without weight. This extremely backward, youthfully understated Clos firms up dramatically on the back end, finishing with palate-saturating citrus and talc flavors that refuse to fade. One of the longest Chablis bottlings I tasted for this issue, this truly transcends chardonnay.
Allen Meadows - Burghound
This too offers dazzling aromatic purity but is even less expressive at the moment than the Preuses as the classic young Les Clos austerity is present in spades with tight, layered and elegant green fruit, oyster shell, iodine and white flower aromas that are cool and very primary, indeed even backward. The flavors are also quite understated and seem to be extracted directly from liquid rock as the minerality this displays is remarkable and there is a very different tactile sense in the mouth with simply tremendous buffering extract and staggering length on the ultra precise, bone dry and explosive finish. Wow, this is flat out stunning Les Clos that is constructed entirely on its minerality. One of the wines of the vintage.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
Like this year’s La Forest, Dauvissat’s 2007 Chablis Les Clos seems palpably stony and chalky, yet boasts considerable gloss. It also displays a mollusk broth like dimension, here allied to sense of weight and sheer extract that none of the premier crus in this collection can claim. Hints of lanolin and vanilla make one aware of the barrel presence, and a toasted nut element helps lend a sense of richness as well as piquancy to what is otherwise a decidedly mineral-dominated as well as formidably long finish. It’s hard to imagine this (by Dauvissat’s own admission) massively dense wine ever achieving the elegance or mystery of the La Forest – let’s see in a few years – but as an expression of Kimmeridgian essence, it’s quite an achievement, and one sure to merit a dozen or more years’ attention. (DS)
On the lean side, focused and intense, this white offers more mineral and chalk elements than lemony fruit. That said, this is balanced between fruit, mineral, structural and textural components, showing tremendous dry extract and a long finish. Best from 2012 through 2030. (Web Only—2010)