2007 Högl Bruck Riesling Smaragd (Previously $40)
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Medium green-yellow. Initially closed nose slowly reveals honey, caramel, a touch of peach and smoky flint. Full-bodied and creamy in texture, but nicely framed by a firm acid spine. Tropical fruit flavors reminiscent of melon and pineapple mingle with peach and blossom honey, extending through the long finish. Drink 2010 to 2017.
Wine & Spirits
Josef Högl's collection of 2007 rieslings demonstrates a fine harmony and crystalline clarity, particularly this delicately poised Bruck. It feels stony and tense under the ripe citrus fruit, combining Smaragd depth with a racy, edgy structure.
The terraced vineyard of Ried Bruck is a dominant site in Spitz, stony and impossibly steep. The excellent exposure gives richness to the wine, even in cooler years such as 2007. There is fine balance here, a ripe, perfumed character, with its aromas of wild flowers and thyme and its flavors of green pears and red apples.
Minerally and elegant, with plenty of richness to the baked apple, peach and ruby grapefruit flavors. Notes of fruit compote and white pepper fill the long, rich finish. Drink now through 2016. 233 cases made.