2004 Philippe Delesvaux Sélection de Grains Nobles Coteaux du Layon (500ml) (Elsewhere $75)
Seems very rich at first, with blood orange, persimmon and ginger notes, but then the fine minerality takes over, carrying it to a long elegant finish thanks to its rapierlike acidity. Each sip makes you want another. Drink now through 2020. 250 cases made.
Supersweet, but never cloying, with acidity, pear skin tannins and delicate sweet brown sugar and honey flavors. It is a great example of how Loire Chenin manages to keep its balance and freshness while still offering long-aging botrytis character. Keep for at least 10 years.