1998 Gosset "Celebris" Vintage Extra Brut Champagne
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 1998 Extra Brut Vintage Celebris is a beautifully focused, linear wine that sparkles on the palate with the essence of white peaches, pears, quince and flowers. This medium-bodied yet structured wine offers phenomenal persistence, along with chalky, minerally notes that give the wine its superb liveliness and sense of freshness. Like many wines in this line-up, the 1998 Extra Brut Vintage Celebris is a beautiful, contemplative wine that deserves serious attention. This is a great effort. The blend is 64% Chardonnay and 36% Pinot Noir. The cork is labeled C 7202, and this bottle was disgorged early December, 2007. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. (AG)
Dominated by rich Pinot Noir, this is still impressively youthful. It has a sense of power and concentration, with intense white fruit, yeast and just a hint of honey. It could age, but is ready to drink.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Light, bright yellow. A complex, mineral-driven bouquet displays scents of lemon curd, pear skin, fresh pineapple and marzipan, with a floral quality that strengthens with air. Dry but showing no hard edges, offering sappy orchard fruit and citrus flavors, with notes of honeysuckle and allspice. Very complex now but this wine’s nervy spine of acidity bodes well for extended cellaring. This cuvee is a blend of wines from 1999, 1998, 1996 and 1995, finished with a fairly low dosage of 3.5 g/l.; but it doesn’t come off as austere at all.
Wine & Spirits
This exceptional '98 is predominantly chardonnay (64 percent), which seems to mark it with fresh pear flavor. Other than that, there's little that's delicate about the wine, which is powerfully structured, shadowed in earthy savor, brightened as if by light glinting on stone. A contrast of nutty maturity and tense acidity, this has a gamey aspect that will pair with partridge. It should mellow with further cellar time.
Powerful and dry, with a combination of roasted walnut, toast and ginger aromas and flavors. Balanced and assertive, this is a Champagne that needs food and can match a roast chicken, pork or veal. Finishes on the tart side. Drink now through 2025.
The 1998 Gosset Cuvée Celebris is the fourth vintage of their prestige cuvée to be released in a decade. This grand crus champage, from the oldest wine house in Champage (established in 1584), is a blend of eight grand crus, 64% Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs and 36% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and the Grande Valée de la Marne. It is golden hued with shimmering flashes of amber and green, with a fine bead and a bouquet that is at once floral and fruity. Subtler aromas of fresh-baked cake--notes of yeast and vanilla--are followed on the palate with layers of grapefruit and lemon zest that open up into pineapple and peaches. Bright, pure and seductive, the Gosset is like a liquid gossamer celebration for the senses.