1995 Salon Blanc de Blancs Champagne
*Three Stars* That these wines are both expensive and superb as a class comes as no surprise, and yet, even in the midst of such excellence, this bottling stands out for its full, rich, developed, incisively toasty first notes followed by deep, rich, chalky, hazelnut, honey and nicely fruity smells and flavors of extraordinary depth and volume. It captures a perfect mix of richness in its mousse and texture with the slight austerity one wants in Champagne, and, for all of its complexity, it promises to unwind further with age.
*Collectibles* This is assertive and grainy in texture, a big-boned Champagne that's powerful and intensely flavored. Biscuit, graphite, honeysuckle, peach and floral notes come together, defined by the firm structure, and last throughout the complex finish. Needs a little more time for the elements to harmonize.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Pale straw, with gold highlights. Leesy, buttery aromas of honey, orange and toast. Toffee apple, fresh apricot and exotic papaya flavors are accented by dense truffle and smoke. Possesses a wonderfully supple texture and good heft but there's ample acidity to keep it fresh and bright. Finishes spicy, firm and long. This will age well.
From the ripe, open 1995 vintage, this is a round wine with flavors of lemons, grapefruits and almonds. The angles of acidity have been turned into curves as it develops and softens.
Wine & Spirits
Tight and inaccessible when first poured, this Champagne would benefit from decanting if you open it now. The vinous flavors build with air, turning from musky and sauvage toward chalky and complex. There's pure white limestone flavor underneath it all, a powerful and intense character that needs another five years to fully develop.