Louis Roederer "Brut Premier" Champagne (Elsewhere $50)
Beautifully composed reduction across lemon citrus, white peach, cherries and deeper, more savory notes of spice and grilled nuts; fresh and complex at once. The palate's assertively flavored, yet runs on a smooth and fine textural thread. Acidity is paramount, redder fruits hold court here. Great balance and depth. Drink now.
To judge by the cork, this bottling has some age, giving it a toasty as well as fruity character that adds complexity to this baked-apple and citrus-flavored wine. It also means that it needs no further aging and is delicious to drink now.
Finely knit and elegant overall, this vivacious Champagne is creamy and satiny in texture, with layers of yellow plum, chalk, toast, glazed apricot and lemon curd. Offers a lingering, smoke-tinged finish. Drink now through 2020.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Pale gold. Spice- and mineral-accented orchard and pit fruits on the intensely perfumed nose, with hints of toasty lees and brioche adding complexity. Sappy, penetrating and floral on the palate, offering juicy Meyer lemon, pear and melon flavors braced by a smoky mineral underpinning. Closes spicy and very long, leaving a sexy honeysuckle note behind.
This complete and very well-crafted offering combines the buoyancy and lively step of youth with lots of well-defined yeast from first sniff to finish. It is polished, quietly complex and quite long on the palate with fine, unending bubbles, and, if it stops short of showing the depth and dimension of the marquee bottlings of the famous French houses, it is by all measures an exceptional non-vintage Brut.