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Wine Scores
Below is a listing of the wine review scores we frequently reference in our notes. While these sources remain an excellent source of information, we always recommend that you trust your own palate. Scores in these publications often represent the personal taste of an individual critic, which may not always coincide with your own. We have a huge team of excellent wine professionals that can match wines you've had in the past with new arrivals that meet your flavor profile.
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Staff Favorites - Gary Westby
Gary Westby
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Subscribe to My Sommelier Service
I started at K&L in February of 2000, after 4 years of working down the street for another retailer, and although I take care of the Champagne buying here at K&L, I love to drink wine from all over the world. I prize authenticity in wine, and love representative examples of many different styles, whether it is a spicy dry creek zinfandel or a mineral driven Manzanilla. I almost always drink my wine with food, and am drawn to food wines rather than the softer styles that are good for drinking on their own. My wife Cinnamon and I cook a lot of Italian & French food at home, and my list of wines reflects those food choices. I also love value, at every price point, and can't stand "prestige" labels that under deliver in the bottle. I love honest wines for the table. If you love good wine to go with your good cooking too, I think that by joining my personal Sommelier list you will be treated to a wide variety of wines that represent a strong value for money at what ever price range you feel comfortable with. Give it a try!
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Reviews
Bollinger Rosé Champagne
Review Date: 11-16-2009
The Mark Hopkins was the venue for the inaugural
San Francisco stop of the Tour de Champagne
this past October, and this fantastic Champagne
was my favorite discovery at the event. This
spectacular bottle delivers the vinous power that
one would expect from Bollinger, but with elegant
panache. It is one of the best rosés available
at any price.
Price: $89.00
1995 Fleury Brut Vintage Champagne
Review Date: 11-16-2009
Bruno Lemoine of Fleury packed this in, along with his
Doux and regular brut of the same vintage for
our two-city Champagne tasting event. Tasting three vintage Champagnes, identical except for the dosage, is a rare treat for me and a first for many that came to our tastings. Fantastically fullbodied, bone dry at only 3.5 grams of sugar per liter and contrasting flavors of mushroom and chalk, I thought this wine had it all.
Price: $79.99
1995 Krug Clos Ambonnay Champagne
Review Date: 11-16-2009
Tasting this Champagne with the Krug family in the vineyard where it was grown was an experience I will never forget. It is an all Pinot Noir statement from one walled vineyard. Only 3,000 bottles were made of this inaugural vintage! Singular, inimitable, great Champagne for the collector.
Price: $3,500.00
René Collard Cuvée Ultime Ultra Brut
Review Date: 11-16-2009
We had this, Mr. Collard’s last wine,
with simple, cold foie gras and fleur de sel at
home. Although not labeled as vintage, this is exclusively made with 1995 fruit and made without
dosage. It was one of my top food and wine
pairings of the year: the mushroomy flavors and
rich texture matched up and the high acid finish
acted as a perfect foil. Collard’s wines are potent,
and not for everyone, but with a dish like this I
find them to be undeniably great!
Price: $39.99
1998 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame
Review Date: 11-16-2009
To say that the retail space at the Louis Vuitton store in Union Square is different from the retail space at K&L Redwood City could qualify as one of the
understatements of 2008—but that is where I tasted this great Champagne. This wine is as different
from the packaging-oriented, priced to “create the image of exclusivity” bottles offered by the big houses as the contrast between the stores. It is more than $100 worth of Champagne in the bottle and I can’t think of anything from a grand marquee, at any price, that would suit the near term drinking requirements of the Champagne connoisseur better.
Price: $109.00
2006 Agostino Pavia Barbera d'Asti, Moliss
Review Date: 10-30-2009
This bottle (and a little bacon) proved a fine foil for the very virtuous spaghetii squash meal that Cinnamon prepared last night. This Barbera is better than a normal mid week wine, with depth and concentration as well as refreshing zip. This is inimitable Barbera, and took me back to Piedmont as soon as we poured the first glass. This is no zin imitation!
Price: $16.95
Tarlant Cuvee Louis Brut Prestige Champagne 1.5L
Review Date: 9-23-2009
Drinking this Champagne out of magnum is a decadent wine experience. We served this to family friends paired with fresh figs that we had put under the broiler dotted with Cyprus Grove Truffle Tremor goat cheese and some ancient balsamic. The magnum was sent rattling into the recycling bin all to quickly... This is quite a rich Champagne, and is hitting a point in its development now where the chardonnay and the pinot noir are on even terms. The savor of old pinot is not there yet, the caramel of old chardonnay is still far away, but the black cherry fruit and chalky sparkle are in full stride. Yes- this is about as good as it gets now, and yet the wine promises different experiences that are just as lovely later!
Drink from
2009
to
2019
Price: $119.00
2008 La Gatte Blanc, Bordeaux
Review Date: 9-15-2009
Finding the perfect vinous partner for battered, fried fish (as in fish & chips) is a quest that has dogged me for years... My quest is now complete. This inexpensive Bordeaux is quite special and very unusual for a wine from this area. While most white Bordeaux is either oily and broad from semillon, or grassy and light from sauvignon blanc, the La Gatte is exotic from the high percentage of sauvignon gris. It is very aromatic, even viognier like on the nose, and yet has scythe like acidity on its impressive finish. What a wower!
Top Value!
Price: $10.99
2008 La Gatte Rosé, Bordeaux
Review Date: 9-15-2009
This full bodied rose is full of ripe strawberry fruit and balanced nicely with a refreshing snap. A perfect wine for the fridge door, it makes a delightful aperitif as well as a good partner for salads or lighter mid-week fare.
Price: $9.99
2007 Brooks Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
Review Date: 9-9-2009
This is a very good Oregon Pinot Noir for the table. It has a light, brick/ ruby color and an open nose of coffee and wild red fruit. In the mouth it has some chanterelle mushroom intrigue that is rare in Pinot from outside of Burgundy, and even rarer at under $20. If you like to drink your Pinot with a savory dinner (I couldn't help thinking of lamb shank!) than this is one not to miss.
Price: $18.99
2006 Castle Rock Columbia Valley Syrah
Review Date: 9-9-2009
The world is awash with cheap tasting syrah, much of which is labeled Shiraz and unfortunately not as cheap as it tastes. This is not part of that great lake of red, but rather a rare breed of inexpensive, honest, delightful wine. With flavors of pepper and blueberry and a touch of round ripeness, I think that you will be surprised at how far $6.99 takes you with this bottle. Thank you Castle Rock! You have delivered value to the table!
Top Value!
Price: $6.99
Four Roses Yellow Label Bourbon 80 Proof 750ml
Review Date: 9-9-2009
Bourbon & Rye are the USA's great contribution to the world of spirits, and the Four Roses has been an ambassador bottle for the category internationally for many years. This delicious bourbon makes a fine Manhattan, as recommended above, but it also makes a great Whiskey sour, my favorite cold brown liquor cocktail. At home we use equal parts Meyer lemon from our dwarf tree and Bourbon, with one teaspoon of super fine sugar per shot of whiskey, mixing it all thoroughly before pouring over ice in a rocks glass. We then garnish with a slice of Meyer lemon and a maraschino cherry. This old fashioned drink is a classic for a reason; it is very refreshing and synergistic. I hope you will try it!
Price: $21.99
2007 Freja Willamette Valley Pinot Noir
Review Date: 9-9-2009
I suppose the wine business is a haven for contrarians, and in that fine tradition, I am finding that I prefer the lighter 2007 Oregon Pinots to the much more heralded 2008's. This Freja made me feel as if I was there in Oregon as soon as I smelled it, with a touch of summery tomato leaf aroma framing the raspberry Pinot fruit. With a light to medium body and good acidity to invite drinking more than one glass I thought, "This is my next salmon on the grill wine!" The very fair price is a bonus!
Top Value!
Price: $16.99
2007 Bolognani Moscato Giallo (Dry Muscat)
Review Date: 8-25-2009
Aromatic whites are rarely this refreshing, and this lovely bottle has a balance that is rare at any price. The Bolgnani has a full basket of flowery and lavender like aroma and more of the same comes through on the palate. The body of the wine is light and spritely, and finishes fresh and focused. Unlike most Muscat it has no residual sugar- actually, this wine is quite a bit drier than most of the California Chardonnay that we carry!
Price: $16.99
2005 Moretti Montefalco Rosso
Review Date: 8-25-2009
This big, rustic beast of a wine can't wait to be paired up with your next leg of lamb dinner! The Sagrantino in the blend seems like it should be more than just 30%, it is so full of extract and vinous power. Like all my favorite big wines, the Moretti does not have extra alcohol or sugar, just a lot of extra flavor... Look for woodsy underbrush and almost volcanic earth in this gutsy wine! Don't forget to decant it plenty early, and don't worry if you forget a few in your cellar, it will last.
Drink from
2009
to
2019
Price: $17.99
North Shore Gin No. 6
Review Date: 8-25-2009
This top-notch gin made was a fabulous partner to tonic last night. With a strong hint of rosemary and winter spice, I found it to be incredibly refreshing and all to easy too drink. It took a lot of self discipline to only have one! This is a must in the cabinet of any gin lover.
Price: $31.99
2006 Ruggeri Corsini Barbera d'Alba "Armujan"
Review Date: 8-25-2009
This is manly wine. The Armujan is almost black in color and smells of wild black fruit and earth. On the palate it is very broad, but without any of the sugar that I have come to expect in wines of this scale. It also has a tar note that reminds me more of Barolo than Barbera d'Alba and the tannic power of Nebbiolo. This is the perfect wine to go with smoky beef ribs or big game... Just make sure to decant it after you build the fire!
Price: $22.99
Chardonnay, Plaisir des Princes
Review Date: 8-21-2009
This delightful, honeyed Chardonnay is the perfect refrigerator door wine- it will hold up for days with a cork in it, and is as tasty as the aperitif as it is with lighter fare. The wine is light, but not lean and has a hint of mellow fruitiness to balance out its refreshing zing.
Top Value!
Price: $8.99
2007 Domaine des Nembrets Denis Barraud Pouilly-Fuissé "Les Chataigniers",
Review Date: 8-21-2009
This is sophisticated white Burgundy that hasn't forgot how to be a good time. This Pouilly-Fuisse has the classic flint and haunting, elusive fruit that I look for in good wines from Macon, but a lot more complexity than I would expect from this region- especially at $19.99. I think this is a must try for any fan of white Burgundy, even if you are lucky enough to be accustomed to Puligny and Chassagne. For that matter, I think it is a must try for any fan of Chardonnay. The minerality and persistence of this wine are truly impressive, and the richness and pure fruit are a lot of fun- I hope you will try it!
Price: $19.99
2002 Bodegas Las Orcas "Solar de Randez" Crianza Rioja
Review Date: 8-20-2009
This is my kind of wine! What great balance, finesse, and au point drinkability! The perfect antidote to the over-ripe, over-oaked wines that get big scores in Spain, this is inimitable, delicate, medium bodied wine that could only come from Rioja. I am planning on rushing a few bottles of this home to drink with some paella over the weekend!
Drink from
2009
to
2012
Price: $15.99
2007 Josef Leitz "Magic Mountain" Riesling Trocken (Dry)
Review Date: 8-18-2009
A lot of our customers ask for a great dry Riesling. Now we have it- if you are ready for it! This is exciting, concentrated, pure, mineral-driven essence of the Rheingau with absolutely no sugar or softness whatsoever. While decidedly not for the uninitiated, this wine wowed our entire staff, and was clearly the top wine of our big Loire/ Austrian / German training session. This will pair very well with pan-Asian cuisine now, and should age effortlessly for many years to come in your good cellar.
Drink from
2009
to
2017
Price: $34.99
Launois "Cuvée Reserve" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Review Date: 8-18-2009
Cinnamon and I paired this with some pork paté from the fatted calf in Napa before diving into some pork chops last night, and I was left wanting for nothing. This is a wine of depth, finesse and intrigue and yet is about as easy as it gets to drink without engaging the grey matter at all.
Price: $34.99
2008 Pascal Janvier Jasnières
Review Date: 8-18-2009
This is a very intriguing bottle for the adventurous wine drinker. To me, this Jasnieres is what Loire Chenin Blanc is all about- honeyed richness, a touch of residual sugar, and a huge, buzzing, mineral powerhouse finish. I think this would be fantastic paired with the right cheeses- the salty pungent ones, or perhaps with a beet salad that includes a sheep’s milk cheese.
Drink from
2009
to
2018
Price: $16.99
2008 Schloss Gobelsburg "Gobelsburger" Grüner Veltliner
Review Date: 8-18-2009
Wines like this make my job the best in the world. The 2008 vintage was a very difficult one in Austria, with every weather challenge imaginable confronting the growers. At Schloss Gobelsburg, my guess is that they have responded to the challenges by declassifying a lot of their fanciest vineyards into their most basic bottling - this is very serious wine for $15.99. Properly tense and full of white pepper on the nose, this does not taste like a wine from a weak vintage!
Price: $15.99
2008 Tessier Cheverny Rosé
Review Date: 8-18-2009
This is my favorite rosé at K&L, and perfect for the Indian summer. On the nose, it reminds me of a Provencal rose, and it is brimming with lavender aromatically. The contrast is the flavor - all Loire cool fruit and a very refreshing finish. This is a favorite aperitif for the backyard that can also pair well with all of the tastes of late summer - tomato salads and grilled chicken... Yum!
Price: $12.99
2008 Tessier Cheverny Rouge
Review Date: 8-18-2009
This might be the most fun bottle of red wine in stock at K&L right now. This medium- to light-bodied red is 10 out of 10 for drinkability, and is so well balanced that I need to be careful not to drink too much of it at home. It has very nice kirsch-like fruit on the nose, and a supple feel in the mouth. This is a great match for all manner of simple foods at home - especially roast chicken!
Top Value!
Price: $13.99
2005 Benanti Rosso di Verzella
Review Date: 8-12-2009
Cinnamon and I do not drink a lot of Sicilian wines at home, as most of them are a little ripe and high in alcohol for the food that we eat. The Benanti is a great exception - vineyards high in altitude (2,500 feet) making wines lower in alcohol are favorites of ours. Cinnamon prepared a sausage feast with braised organic cabbage and potatoes from our Full Belly Farm box. Here are my notes from that night: Positively Italian nose - cool, marzipan, black cherries and a touch of dust to boot. Cinnamon says it smells volcanic, but I find the texture to draw more of my attention... It is, as Greg St. Clair will shudder to hear "smooth!" Very supple and cool texturally - a real contrast to the raisiny, hot stuff that gets big scores in tastings and poor results on the table with food. A real core of black, fresh cherries, yet wonderfully restrained.
Price: $16.99
Brouwerij De Ranke "XX Bitter" Belgian IPA 750ml
Review Date: 8-12-2009
This extraordinarily drinkable Belgian IPA is from Wevelgem in West Flanders - and I have been drinking it to celebrate the spring classics in Flanders - particularly the Ghent-Wevelgem bike race. It has a straw/golden color and a bubble train that would make tête de cuvée Champagne blush. The picture is completed by a gorgeous head of Belgian lace that I could imagine floating a quarter on top of. Unlike the new world style of IPA, this robustly hoppy and refreshing ale has balance. Get some before I drink them all!
Price: $15.99
Lustau Fino del Puerto Obregon Sherry
Review Date: 8-11-2009
Over the weekend we had a lovely Spanish themed dinner party, and served this great fino with Tapas in our backyard. We paired it with peppers that I had stuffed with a paprika aioli- tuna filling, smoked almonds, olives and oloroso mushrooms. This bone dry, full bodied fino went fantastically well with the food and showed off a salt air brininess as well as a haunting apple hint of fruit. When we sat down for the main course- paella heavy on the chorizo, the Obregon surprised me with its flexibility. Although its unyielding dryness might come as a shock to the uninitiated, fans of the best of the world of wine owe it to themselves to taste this example of affordable greatness.
Price: $19.99
2008 Mulderbosch Chenin Blanc Stellenbosch
Review Date: 8-11-2009
Fans of good value Chardonnay should try this delicious Chenin from South Africa. It is a very rich, full bodied, big white wine with plenty of texture and fruit, but unlike Chardonnays of a similar size and price has perfectly integrated acidity. If you were thinking of branching out and trying a few new things, this is a great bottle! I think it would be as much at home with a mid-week fish or chicken dish as it is as tasty as an after work drink.
Top Value!
Price: $12.99
2005 Conde de San Cristobal Ribera del Duero (was $23.99)
Review Date: 8-4-2009
This is a decadent bottle of Spanish wine, and certainly a lot richer and flashier than what we usually drink at home, but it comes together so well and is so reasonably priced that I cannot help but write about it! If you like rich wines like Caymus and Duckhorn, this is your ticket to Spain. The Cristobal is full of black fruit and well integrated vanilla and coco from lavish barrel treatment and yet manages to deliver on the mid palate where so many other flashy wines come up short. This would be a fabulous choice with a grilled rib eye.
Drink from
2009
to
2015
Price: $19.99
2008 Tabali Pinot Noir Reserva Especial Limari Valley
Review Date: 8-4-2009
A good deal in Pinot Noir is the golden chalice of the wine business, with many seekers and very few finders. I think that this Chilean wine will change that for a lot of us. It has hints of coffee and wild red berry fruit aromatically, and a seamless, smooth texture that is charming and very easy to like. The Tabali reminds me of a slightly better balanced $35 central coast Pinot. Get it before it is gone- good deals in Pinot never last!
Price: $17.99
North Shore Gin No. 11
Review Date: 7-30-2009
Don't hesitate when you see this gin in stock, it is very small production and quite sought after. The last batch all sold before touching the shelf! The number 11 has a relaxed exoticism that reminds me of Hendricks, with a dry refreshing streak that only the Junipero can equal. The balance is fabulous, and combined with a lime from our dwarf tree, a glass full of ice and a splash of tonic, I was in after-work-cocktail heaven.
Price: $31.99
2006 Domaine Bernard Millot Bourgogne Blanc
Review Date: 7-29-2009
This is the kind of white Burgundy that inspires Chardonnay planting world wide! This domain is located in Meursault, and it certainly tastes like a baby Meursault, with a generous, nutty nose a medium to full body and excellent crisp acidity on the finish. This would make an excellent cocktail wine and truly shine with simply prepared, rich white fish.
Drink from
2009
to
2013
Price: $17.99
2006 Domaine Jean-Paul/Stephane Magnien Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru
Review Date: 7-29-2009
This decadent bottle of Grand Cru Burgundy puts the charm in Charmes, and at a price that is less than half of comparable bottles. The color is dark, but the nose reminded me straight away of the style of Dujac- as our esteemed alum Jesse Becker would say "catnip for humans". The oak is there on the nose (and also the texture) but as a completely integrated feature of the suave black cherry aromatics. It is rich and powerful Pinot on the mid palate, and downright endless on the finish. I must set aside some of my wine budget for this!
Drink from
2009
to
2026
Price: $69.95
2006 Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis Grand Cru "Les Clos"
Review Date: 7-29-2009
I love good Chablis, and tasting this yesterday made me wish it was Dungeness crab season now. This is done in my favorite style, fermented in large old wood and far more open than the stainless steel variety of Chablis. The nose is almost imposing, with lots of Chablis earth and a touch of honey. On the palate it is very rich, and I think would surprise a lot of Chardonnay drinkers with its breadth. The finish is focused however; and while I would not call it steely, it certainly is bright and true to Chablis. This is perfect Grand Cru for tonight- where is that crab?
Drink from
2009
to
2016
Price: $44.99
2006 Domaine Ruet Cote de Brouilly Cru Beaujolais
Review Date: 7-29-2009
I love good cru Beaujolais! It goes so well with a Tuesday night meal of roast chicken or simply prepared pork chops, that I often kick myself for not having enough around. This Cote de Brouilly is super tasty red wine; refreshing and full of wild blackberry fruit, yet balanced with a kiss of iron. If you like good fruit in your red wine, but are not crazy about residual sugar or high alcohol you should give it a try!
Drink from
2009
to
2012
Price: $16.99
2006 Nicolas Potel Santenay 1er Cru " Les Gravières"
Review Date: 7-29-2009
I need some of this for our cellar at home! Santenay les Gravieres is an excellent vineyard site, and consistently underpriced. This fantastic 2006 from Potel is a prime example; it has wild, vibrant black fruit, plenty of complex, gravely earth and true premier cru concentration. It is a tempting wine to drink now, but I am sure that it will improve over the next 5 or more years. I would pair this with duck, pheasant or any game bird!
Drink from
2009
to
2016
Tarlant Brut Zero Champagne 375ml
Review Date: 7-18-2009
I am not usually a fan of half bottles, and confess to a strong preference for magnums, but this little bottle is the perfect aperitif for a couple with time constraints. It was our 5th anniversary this week, and Cinnamon and I were taking a very short train ride from Redwood City to San Mateo to dine at Sushi Sams. Naturally, we needed Champagne for the train! She produced two Riedel "O" glasses from her purse and I popped this bottle- perfection. Aromatically developed, this Champagne had a nutty nose that is usually only found in much more expensive bottles. This generous nose is contrasted by incredibly chalky, dry flavor, and an almost cutting finish. This is exactly the type of Champagne that I enjoy most after work, and this half was easily dispatched over the course of the short train ride. If you like dry Champagne and sometimes only need a smidge, this half is ideal!
Price: $18.99
2007 Ruggeri Corsini Dolcetto d'Alba
Review Date: 6-19-2009
Wow! Cinnamon and I drank this last night with a wonderful fettuccine carbonara with some summer zucchini and crookneck squash that she prepared. This is my kind of wine. I found this Dolcetto to be very soulful, and I wrote in my note from last night that it should be drunk by the jeroboam instead of the 750. It is dark, dark purple, but does not have any of the neon sheen of the processed wines that over-populate this price point. On the nose, it is all Italy - dried black cherry and thorny, earthy bramble. Texturally it is quite full bodied for Dolcetto, with lots and lots of mid palate impact, but not the "up front" pop of engineered wine, this is texture right in the wheel house! The Ruggeri's flavors are a black fruit explosion as well, but well framed by subtle forest floor bramble. The finish is tannic, so make sure that you pair it with food, and not diet food! Our bacony carbonara was great, but I think rich beef and pork dishes would be great as well. This is one to buy by the case!
Top Value!
Price: $12.99
2007 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc, Pessac-Léognan Pre-Arrival
Review Date: 6-17-2009
The bottles of Domaine de Chevalier Blanc in my cellar are some of my most treasured. This is one of the great wines of the world, and is made in quantities like top Burgundy - very small. It also has the haunting complexity of Burgundy and almost unlimited longevity. I have been lucky enough to drink two of Greg St. Clair's 1983s in recent years and it is as good as wine gets. Last night, Cinnamon and I enjoyed the 2000 and 2001 vintages from our cellar, which were bright as stars and have not yet taken on any aged characteristics! I have been lucky enough to taste many vintages, and I dare say that I can remember every one and every occasion because of the huge impression that the wine makes on me each time.
Drink from
2016
to
2027
Price: $86.99
2006 Domaine Ruet Brouilly Cru Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes
Review Date: 5-13-2009
It is a pity that Beaujolais is so misunderstood. This under $20 red has everything to recommend it: a fantastic nose of both fresh and dried black fruit, a touch of chocolate, a light to medium body, and a real finish. The summer is a great time to drink wine like this, it goes with a wide variety of food; everything from picnic cold cuts to full blown BBQ. I love to drink it cool, tie a string around the neck and cool it in a nearby stream at a picnic or just serve it at cellar temperature in the back yard. This is a fuss-less pleasure and far to easy to drink!
Drink from
2009
to
2011
Price: $16.99
2002 Louis Roederer "Cristal" Brut Champagne
Review Date: 5-7-2009
This Champagne comes entirely from estate Grand and Premier Cru vineyards and is one of the finest young Cristals I have tasted. It is very, very dry and tight, with the kind of precision and minerality that one would only expect from a much smaller production Champagne.
Price: $179.00
Warre's "Otima" 10-year-old Tawny Port (500ml)
Review Date: 5-7-2009
We were honored by a visit from Dominic Symington, the Director of Warre on Tuesday, and this was one of many Ports that he poured for us. I was extremely impressed by this 10-year-old tawny, which he served quite cool. He explained that tawny, and other Ports for that matter, are often served far to warm in the US. At cellar temperature (around 55 degrees) this Port showed an amazing amount of depth, and even some tannic structure that is usually only found in vintage ports. This is a great way to end an evening, and will keep quite well after being opened.
Price: $18.99
2007 Bethel Heights Estate "Eola-Amity Hills" Pinot Noir
Review Date: 5-6-2009
When we had this offering from Bethel Heights at our recent staff tasting it sent me up to Oregon as soon as I stuck my nose in the glass. The transparent dark red color was a good hint - this is no over-extracted beast, but an elegant wine. This is not an earthy Pinot, but has captured pure Willamette fruit, intense and long finishing.
Price: $27.99
2007 Once Wines California/Oregon Pinot Noir
Review Date: 5-5-2009
This unpretentious, very well balanced Pinot Noir was one of the biggest surprises at our staff tasting today. Packed with plenty of extroverted fruit, the wine is dry enough and has enough structure to be, as advertised, for the table.
Price: $23.99
2007 Chateau Montelena Napa Chardonnay
Review Date: 5-2-2009
Montelena deserves the spotlight that the movie "Bottle Shock" has shown on it. They have been making some of Napa Valley's best wine for decades. Just like the 1973 vintage in the movie, this 2007 has fantastic white Burgundy-like (or even beating) richness and length. This is a real lobster wine, fit for the most special occasions. They also age spectacularly. Jim Barr and I did a vertical going back all the way to 1979 a few years ago - and the 1979 won!
Price: $44.99
Franck Bonville Brut Selection Blanc de Blancs Champagne 1.5L
Review Date: 5-2-2009
I always have to order extra of these magnums - Clyde & Trey always gobble up about half of what we get! All Champagne has an advantage in magnum, seeing more surface area for lees contact and half the amount of air exposure. Already exceptional out of 750, the Bonville Selection picks up both richness and zip in the larger format bottle - making it the "smallest" big bottle that we have. It ends up empty far too soon!
Price: $64.99
Ardbeg Uigeadail Traditional Strength Islay Single Malt Whisky (Was $99.99) 750ml
Review Date: 5-1-2009
I love Ardbeg, and the Uigeadail is one of the most special expressions that I have had from this great Islay distillery. No other distillery makes a malt quite as peaty as Ardbeg, and this one has an additional twist: sherry wood aging. The sherry wood gives another dimension of richness and weight to this typically light and piercing single malt. I have a bottle at home, and I love it for a cold night by the fire - but Alex Brisoux (the Redwood City store manager) swears by it with oysters! That is a combination that is hard for me to imagine, but I don't doubt a professional like Alex on a topic as serious as pairings!
Price: $73.99
Michel Arnould Grand Cuvée Brut Champagne
Review Date: 4-28-2009
Cinnamon and I shipped this to Costanoa, a resort by the beach (better than carrying it on our bicycle!) and enjoyed it alfresco after a day in the saddle. We carried Riedel "O" stemless glasses in our jersey pockets (don't try this at home kids!) because we forgot to ship them... We were glad we did. This wine has so much complexity and subtlety it would have been a shame to drink it out of substandard glassware. The Grand Cuvee is very powerful Pinot-based stuff, with a hint of smoke on the nose, a very supple texture and a bone dry, persistent finish. A great reward after a long ride!
Price: $34.99
Coniston Brewing Co. "Bluebird Bitter," England 500 ml
Review Date: 4-17-2009
This hoppy bitter deserves the accolades it has received; which include the Campaign for Real Ale's "Ale of the Year" in 2008. Bright, refreshing bitterness, balanced by high quality but extraordinarily restrained maltiness and very low alcohol make this a true session beer - perfect for occasions when having a few more than one. This will be in my cellar (they suggest 58 degree serving temperature) from now on!
Price: $5.99
Ariston Aspasie Brut Prestige Champagne
Review Date: 4-10-2009
Cinnamon and I drank this fantastic bottle over the last couple of days and it impressed us both immensely. It has old vine weight and intensity, but still maintains a vigor and brightness that succeeded in tempting me into drinking a little too much of it and the Burgundy that followed it... I blame Paul Vincent Ariston for leading me down the wrong path - again!
Price: $39.99
Brouwerij De Ranke "XX Bitter" Belgian IPA, Belgium 11.5 oz
Review Date: 4-7-2009
This extraordinarily drinkable Belgian IPA is from Wevelgem in West Flanders - and I have been drinking it to celebrate the spring classics in Flanders - particularly the Ghent-Wevelgem bike race. It has a straw/golden color and a bubble train that would make tete de cuvee Champagne blush. The picture is completed by a gorgeous head of Belgian lace that I could imagine floating a quarter on top of. Unlike the new world style of IPA, this robustly hoppy and refreshing ale has balance. Get some before I drink them all!
Price: $4.99
2007 Vincent Paris Saint-Joseph
Review Date: 4-7-2009
The 2007 vintage was not as hot in the Northern Rhone as it was in the South, and for my freshness loving palate, I think they are all the better for it. The Paris St-Joseph has that special Syrah purple color and a classic nose of high-toned white pepper and violets. In the mouth it is pure Northern Rhone - no one will mistake this for California or Australia! It is bone dry, red fruit driven and has plenty of tannin for a leg of lamb dinner. The flavors are concentrated, but it is not at all overweight - delicious and ageable!
Drink from
2009
to
2017
Price: $24.99
2007 Salomon Undhof Wieden Grüner Veltliner
Review Date: 3-31-2009
This is a wine of authority, concentration and power. I was most struck by the texture; it has richness that is rare in a un-oaked wine of moderate alcohol. The aromatics are top notch and classic for the varietal: white pepper, exotic fruit and a touch of melon. I found more of the same on the palate, but also a good dose of minerality and fine focused acidity. Gruners are a fantastic partner to difficult-to-pair food, and this wonderful wine would go very well with Vietnamese or even Indian flavors. They also hold up very well in the refrigerator, so if you drink it over the course of a week or so it will not go down hill!
Price: $24.99
Hendrick's Gin From Scotland 750ml
Review Date: 3-27-2009
Scotland has more to offer than just great whisky... This gin is world class too! Cinnamon and I are both big fans of the old "mother's ruin" and always keep a variety on hand. Along with Fernet Branca and Rittenhouse Rye, this is one of the most repeated bottles of spirits in our liquor cabinet. This is a gentle style of gin, not extra proof or supercharged with juniper, yet it is could never be given the old put-down "vodka lovers gin"- it has far too much balanced flavor for that. The cucumber and rose petal elements in this fine spirit lend a cooling and subtly aromatic touch rather than being overt flavorings. I love it with tonic, and just the smallest corner of one of our homegrown Meyer lemons.
Price: $26.99
Sandeman 20-year-old Tawny Port
Review Date: 3-25-2009
This is my top 20 year Tawny, and perhaps my favorite tawny in the store. It has a very pale amber color and a serious old solera nose. On the palate the Port is full bodied, with candied citrus and roasted, salted almond flavors. The perfectly balanced sweetness and long finish complete the package. This is a great tawny - at any age. I am looking forward to pairing it with a cheese course at my next dinner party, and Ligia from Sandeman showed us how well it works with milk chocolate as well!
Price: $46.99
2005 Bourbon la Chapelle, Médoc
Review Date: 3-24-2009
This is not just a great deal in Bordeaux, it is a great deal in red wine, period! Much has been written about the strength of the 2005 vintage in Bordeaux, with almost all of the attention going to the greatest producers and the exorbitant prices that their wines have fetched. This wine shows that the vintage was great for the little guys too - most of our Bordeaux team would argue that the petite Chateaux (like Bourbon La Chappelle) reap the most benefit from this historic vintage. This wine has a generous nose of classic black currant and coffee, is well endowed with dark, cool fruit on the palate and finishes with surprising length. It is a great wine for the table, and should drink better and better through the first decade of its development. I love everyday wine with cellar potential!
Top Value!
Drink from
2009
to
2015
Price: $12.99
2008 Walter Hansel Russian River Valley Sauvignon Blanc
Review Date: 3-17-2009
What lovely balance! This wine does not go to the grassy extreme that many domestic Sauvignons do, nor does it ape the overly hot peppered style of New Zealand. It has a solid medium weight, lovely texture and good persistence. This is excellent spring wine.
Top Value!
Price: $14.99
Anchor Junipero Gin 750ml
Review Date: 3-14-2009
Fritz Maytag of Anchor Brewing fame is a hero of mine. Everything he is involved with, from Anchor Steam beer (my personal desert island beer) to his exceptional York Creek wines and his Protero distillations, are among the best in the world. I always blame my English heritage for my strong attraction to gin, but this all-American creation is certainly one of my favorites. While very light in body, this is strong stuff at nearly 100 proof, and has a huge amount of very clean juniper flavor. I love it with ice, lime and tonic, but it is also a fantastic martini gin.
Price: $29.99
Baron Fuente Esprit Brut Champagne
Review Date: 3-13-2009
Eric de Brisis from Champagne Baron Fuente just visited us (3/11/09) here at K&L, and we had a great time with him. We did tastings in both the San Francisco and Redwood City stores and had a lot of good customers come and taste. The star of the tasting was this Esprit. Not many Champagne houses make a non-vintage wine like this, with such a suave texture from long aging, and none at such a low price. This is elegant Champagne for sure; not at all austere, yet in no way sweet, a balanced and fine aperitif.
Top Value!
2000 Bruno Michel Cuvee Clement Blanc de Noir Brut
Review Date: 3-5-2009
Cinnamon and I drank this last night for a very special occasion - we finally got to meet and dine with two customers that we have been speaking on the phone and emailing back and forth with for years. After a lovely aperitif of 2004 Bonville Blanc de Blancs (coming later this year), we had this with some farm-style duck pate from a local stand-out butcher and charcuterie producer, Dittmers, in Mountain View. This wine is so bright and mineral-driven, that it can be a surprise afer having some of the fatter Valley of the Marne, Meunier-based Champagnes. It has a little bit of floral, exotic aromas that blend nicely with a tiny touch of spice on the nose. It had plenty of refreshing acidity to cut the very rich duck - and didn't go half bad with the filet that we were drinking Bordeaux with! This is one of my favorite Champagnes that we stock, and will improve for many years!
Drink from
2009
to
2020
Price: $54.99
Fernet Branca 750ml
Review Date: 3-5-2009
Fernet has a following that borders on a cult here at the K&L. The ultimate in "acquired tastes" this herbal digestif is rarely enjoyed by the imbiber the first time. But, in the wine business, we often times have meals that are a little bit bigger than normal, and need a little something to settle our stomachs, and nothing on the planet is better than Fernet. Cinnamon is an evangelical convert to this magic elixir, and having less than half of a bottle of it in our liquor cabinet is an emergency situation. We even have Fernet posters in our living room - no lie! Try this out the next time you need a little help settling your stomach after a big meal... You'll learn to love the herbal taste.
Price: $21.99
2006 Agostino Pavia Barbera d'Asti Bricco Blina
Review Date: 3-4-2009
I made a merguez sausage toasted couscous tagine over the weekend and packed it with nearly every hot spice that we had in our spice rack - it seemed like a good idea at the time! When it was done steaming in the tagine, it was good, but MUCH spicier than I expected... I thought to myself "Cinnamon is going to be very unhappy if I 'White Wine' her on this cold winter's night," and I immediately went to the cellar to try and find a red that would go. Bingo! This Barbera gets all of its structure from its juicy acidity, and is virtually tannin free. The red fruit flavors are sleek and bright, and there is no wood to react poorly with spice. This is the perfect choice for spicy pasta, or even a red for Indian or Chinese cuisine. Yum!!
Price: $14.99
2002 Louise Brison Vintage Brut (was $39.99)
Review Date: 3-4-2009
A lot of good things have been said about the 2002 vintage, and tasting this one confirms them all. This is a special bottle, with both the richness of the Aube and a mineral cut that completes and balance the wine. This wine should age very well - Cinnamon and I just drank the 1992 with Gougeres at a friends house, and it is as fresh as a current release at 17 years old.
Drink from
2009
to
2012
Price: $34.99
Ariston Aspasie Blanc de Blancs Champagne
Review Date: 2-25-2009
This is one of our longest running direct import Champagnes- we have been carrying it now for almost 10 years. It had been a while (months at least!) since I had drunk a bottle of the Aspasie Blanc de Blancs, so Cinnamon and I put matters to right last Friday night. We had a dinner date just four blocks from our house, so we filled up a couple of flutes and enjoyed the Champagne on our walk in the neighborhood, and even received a jealous comment from a neighbor on our way. This is K&L's creamiest Blanc de Blanc: full-bodied, gentle, and brimming with a soft mousse. It is festive Champagne, and drinking it outside got our party started early. This is a top recommendation for your next party - no matter how small!
Drink from
2009
to
2014
2006 Vietti Barbera d'Asti "Tre Vigne"
Review Date: 2-25-2009
This Barbera is a favorite year in and year out at the Westby house. Last night Cinnamon and I drank our first 2006 with filet mignon served rare on top of arugula with shaved parmesan. I decanted it just before serving, and as each glass was better than the last, I realized that I should have done it sooner - I think an hour or so ahead would be best. We prefer Barbera from Asti to that of Alba because the wines have brighter acidity and are a touch lighter bodied from this part of Piedmont. The Vietti did not disappoint; although quite dark in color and full of ripe black fruit aromas and flavors, the finish was bright as can be. I cannot recommend this highly enough as a food friendly red - I can imagine it going just as well with winter pasta or pork dish as it did with our filet. The decanter was empty far too soon and, as far as I know, our cat, the boss, did not drink any...
Price: $18.99
2006 Penfolds "Bin 389" Cabernet-Shiraz South Australia
Review Date: 2-24-2009
Food wine from Australia?! Steak just happens to be on the menu for tonight! This wine surprised me for the 10th vintage in a row today... I need to start giving the 389 the respect it deserves. The nose was a Monte Bello-like marriage of cool cassis fruit and vanillin American oak, subtle and worth searching for in the glass. On the palate it is medium- to full-bodied, completely dry, and completely dominated by the Cabernet in the blend. Jimmy C. was reminiscing about a 1976 he had drunk last year, and it made me want a few of these in the back of my cellar... 2006 is tipped to be tops for a while in Australia!
Drink from
2009
to
2019
Price: $29.99
2008 Pewsey Vale Riesling Eden Valley South Australia
Review Date: 2-24-2009
This is one of the most exciting dry Riesling's that we carry - and it is a great price to boot! We are often asked for dry Riesling here at K&L, and even more often we recommend it for pairing with spicy, hard to match food. The Pewsey has both the clean fruit and minerality of a Mosel wine, yet is completely dry like an Alsatian or Austrian Riesling. It is free of petrol, and has a very light body and refreshing mouthfeel, yet it's not overly austere on the finish.
Top Value!
Price: $13.99
Antonio Barbadillo "Solear" Manzanilla 500ml
Review Date: 2-19-2009
People don't believe me when I tell them that one can have an example of one of the greatest wines in the world for less than $10. As unfashionable as it is, Sherry has never stopped being great. Great dry Sherry, like this Manzanilla, is one of the driest wines in the world- the only thing that we have in the store as dry as this are Keith's Aligotes and a few of Eric's selections from the Loire. The problem is, dry, subtle, properly matured white wine is the opposite of the current fashion for sweet, in-your-face red. This wine is a revelation with olives, marcona almonds, jamon and an open mind. Please take a chance on this great bottle- $8.99 is a small price to pay for a great example of one of the worlds great white wine styles.
Top Value!
Price: $8.99
Blandy's 10 year old Sercial Madeira
Review Date: 2-19-2009
While the Wine Enthusiast found this wine totally dry, I found it to have a touch of sweetness. I think that it would still make a great aperitif with some roasted, salty almonds, but have enjoyed my (many) bottles of this wine after dinner with cheese. This Sercial perfectly fits my definition of affordable luxury; it strikes me as special every time I enjoy it, and I can afford to enjoy it often. Since it has spent 10 years cooking in an estufagem (a very hot attic!) one does not have to worry about it going down hill after being opened. In this case I do not speak from experience: I have never had a bottle of this make it to its third week!
Price: $34.99
Ramos Pinto Quinta Ervamoira 10-year-old Tawny Port
Review Date: 2-19-2009
A single-vineyard Port is an elegant way to finish any meal, and since this particular wine has already been aged 10 years in barrel, it is ready to go. One needn't worry about if suffering from oxidation either, after 10 years of slow exposure in oak, a few months re-corked in your cellar or liquor cabinet will not hurt it. This has more vintage-like power and full black fruit than your average 10 year tawny, and goes very well with cobblers and pies as well as the more traditional match with cheese.
Price: $29.99
2003 Taylor LBV Port
Review Date: 2-19-2009
A good bottle of late bottled vintage Port is a fine thing to have in your home- they have the character, if not the quality of a vintage, do not require decanting and hold up for a few weeks after being opened. This 2003 Taylor is a big hit with me, and is very enjoyable with a bit of cheese after dinner.
Top Value!
Price: $16.99
2006 Haut-Bailly, Pessac-Léognan
Review Date: 2-12-2009
This wine has all six red Bordeaux varieties in it! That's right all six: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc of course- Petite Verdot and Malbec yes, and the almost-extinct-in-Bordeaux Carmenere. The 20% "old vines" that Alex mentions in the official write-up include that rare grape, as do all Haut-Bailly bottlings. This wine is one of my stars of the 2006 vintage, and I believe it will provide more pleasure to more people than the monumental 2005, and do it at half the price. We might live to see this one ready, although I doubt that I will live to see it fade! This dark, potent Graves has lots of tight black fruit and a high quality minerality that does not exist outside of Pessac-Leognan. It is very concentrated in flavor without having a hint of syrupiness. I found it to be the longest finishing red at the UGC tasting on 1/23/09. It is a great candidate for the cellar.
Drink from
2016
to
2046
Price: $64.99
Aperol Aperitivo Liqueur 750ml
Review Date: 2-11-2009
Quite a few Aperol bottles have made it into the Westby family recycling bin by way of our liquor cabinet. Cinnamon and I love to make Champagne cocktails with it, a habit that K&L's own Doug Davidson got us started on. Since Aperol has quite a moderate alcohol content (at 11%, it is even less than Champagne!) it isn't quite as dangerous to drink while cooking as other cocktails we enjoy. The recipe is simple: fill a rocks glass thoroughly with ice, add one shot of Aperol, fill the remainder with Champagne (it is great with the Michel Dervin) and add a twist of orange. It is also great with just plain soda and a twist.
Price: $23.99
2006 Cantemerle, Haut-Médoc
Review Date: 2-11-2009
I have written a lot in these staff reviews about the virtues of wel-balanced claret, and if you have patience to wait 6 or 7 years, I believe this wine will come to epitomize that virtue. Anyone with a cellar and a love for Cabernet-based wines should strongly consider this wine for a case purchase. Clyde, Alex B, Alex P, Ralph, Joe Z, Steve and I tasted through an entire ballroom of 2006 Bordeaux at the UGC tasting this January and all of us agreed that the Cantemerle was one of the stars. I thought it was THE star, since the other wines in its class were all more than twice its price, and many wines three times its price could not even touch it! It is perfumed, layered, cassis-driven and framed (but in no way dominated) by oak on the nose and follows through with richness that is not at all overweight on the palate. It is great Bordeaux for a small price; all you have to do is cellar it!!
Price: $29.99
Bruno Michel Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut
Review Date: 2-5-2009
This was the top wine from my April 2008 trip, and it resuscitated me from my flu while I was working sick at my visit to Bruno's property in Pierry. Top class Blanc de Blancs should shimmer, and this does one better, it almost vibrates with refreshing vigor. Like a great Burgundy, this Champagne tells the story of its site, the very cool "Les Brousses" parcel in the Premier Cru village of Pierry. The deep roots of the 45-year-old Chardonnay vines extract a lot of complex minerality from the ancient chalk, and Bruno's all-old-barrel regimen for fermentation and aging, round out the wine. We have drunk quite a bit of this cuvee at home, and it is a favorite with take-out sushi, and I dare say that a good order from the raw bar and this bottle will transform a dull Tuesday into a celebration. It does well with the variety, going from spicy tuna rolls to unagi with aplomb. It is quintessential Champagne from a very special plot.
Price: $44.99
1982 Latour, Pauillac
Review Date: 2-5-2009
This is a wine that lives up to its legend. I have had it once, blind, from my friend Jeff's cellar, and it was everything that it was cracked up to be. We had it with an incredible meal (Jeff is one of the best cooks I know) that started out with 1985 Krug - but that is another story! The Latour was paired with bacon-wrapped, dry-aged filet... Perfection. Cinnamon and I were in awe from the beginning, the wine was so big, yet also effortless. Pure Cabernet Sauvignon cassis and pure Pauillac lead pencil really sung in the glass. It has it all, and it is no secret, thus the price.
Price: $1,999.00
Ramos Pinto White Port
Review Date: 2-5-2009
This dangerously delicious wine has a permanent spot in our home refrigerator door, and the empties are a constant feature in our recycling bin. A blend of several vintages that have been aged in large barrels, it takes a while for the wine to oxidize... Exactly how long we are not sure. The bottles simply have not lasted long enough for us to figure it out! I drink it as the main description recommends, on the rocks with a slice (or twist) of orange, but sometimes also use a Meyer lemon off the tree if my lovely wife is feeling generous enough to give one up. As soon as it is made, I check the clock - and won't allow myself a second one for another 15 minutes. This drink goes down far too easily, and will catch even an experienced wine professional by surprise! It is one of my favorite ways to make the transformation of day into evening!
Price: $13.99
Cadenhead's Old Raj Gin 110 Proof 750ml
Review Date: 1-20-2009
When is a gin worth $50 a bottle? When it tastes like this! I have far too much English blood in my veins, and gin is part of my heritage... I can't resist the stuff. This is simply one of the best, combing the wild exoticism of saffron with the staid authority and elegance of royalty. Cinnamon and I always keep a bottle in the house; it is a luxury worth indulging in. I love it for gin & tonic, as it says on the label "after the hunt"...
Price: $49.99
Rittenhouse Rye 100 Proof, Bottled in Bond 750ml
Review Date: 1-20-2009
I can't say that we have anything- spirits, wine, beer or other that delivers as much value as this superlative spirit. When Susan Purnell secured our first allocation of this producer’s rye, I immediately bought a bottle of this and the 21 year old. I loved the 21 year old, which I opened first, and was completely amazed by the standard bottling. If you have never had rye, you no longer have an excuse not to try it- if you love rye, do not let the low price fool you. This is a rich spirit, but does not have any of the bubble gum sweetness that small batch bourbons are often afflicted with. It also has a wild streak- think rye bread- that is hard to pin down. I enjoy the Rittenhouse on the rocks after dinner most often, but sometimes also indulge in an absinthe sazerac with this rye as the star ingredient. Feel free to write me for the recipe!
Top Value!
Price: $19.99
Ardbeg 10 year old Islay Single Malt Whisky (Was $59.99) 750ml
Review Date: 1-14-2009
How does one judge a fine drink? My father and I have talked about this subject a lot, and one of his key questions is, "would I return to it?" With this expression of Ardbeg, my answer is a big yes. Susan just sold me a bottle of what will be the sixth expression of Ardbeg in my liquor cabinet at present. I love this distillery, and jump at the chance to buy each new bottling that comes our way... Yet I am drawn back most often to the distillery ten. It is the lightest, the brightest, the most untamed by wood and time of all of the Ardbegs we carry. It is full of peat - My wife Cinnamon can often smell it from across the room as I pour and will complain about it. So, don't by it for someone who does not like peat - they will hate it! I am sure that I return to it because it has the peat flavor that I love, but without the oily heaviness that I don't want after a big meal, and after a big meal is when I want Scotch the most. Don’t get me wrong, I love the variety and still drink my other bottles (all of which were more expensive), but I just empty this one fastest. It is delicious, and well worth the modest price.
Price: $46.99
Bruno Michel Blanche Brut Champagne
Review Date: 1-14-2009
I drank this fantastic Champagne on my birthday on Tomales bay - eating oysters’ right out of the beds where they grew, and I drank it out of magnum with caviar on New Years Eve 2008/2009. We sell this wine for $29.99 and it is very worthy of the most special occasions; it is silky yet bracing, complex yet gulpable - it really has it all. It is also a truly affordable luxury.
Top Value!
Price: $29.99
2006 Pasetti Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Review Date: 1-14-2009
Good wine nightly is a necessity for Cinnamon and I, and this Montepulciano makes a frequent appearance on our dinner table as it goes so well with many of the meals that we cook. Guido recommended this to me two years ago when we had the 2004 vintage, which we enjoyed for our annual Giro d'Italia party. Lots of hungry bike riders were in attendance and the main course was Lasagna. This wine is magic with tomato-based sauces, and priced right for Tuesday night or large, thirsty parties.
Top Value!
Price: $14.99
2001 Cos d'Estournel, St-Estèphe
Review Date: 9-22-2008
I have been lucky enough to taste this wine many, many times and each taste was a real occasion. Going back into my old notebook, I see that I tasted it for the first time in barrel at the Chateau on March 29th 2002, and it made a huge impression on me. I felt that it was one of the best wines of the vintage; with exclamation points all over my description- it reminded me very much of the 1990. We tasted it several more times on that trip, and once we compared it to the 2000. The K&L group was unanimous, the 2000 Cos was good, but the 2001 was the better wine- an opinion that has been confirmed again and again by many others in the trade that have done the comparison. This is a classic sleeper, an insider’s vintage, and a smart buy. When we tasted it again on release, when the wine's signature exoticism was really starting to blossom. This Cos is much more modern than bottles from the old days, but somehow Jean-Guillaume Prats and his team have updated the wine without compromising its soul. It is still (I have tasted up to 2005) one of the most identifiable wines in Bordeaux with its perfectly balanced components of coffee, cinnamon and clean-clay-earth. This is big Bordeaux, and while I think it would show very well in a comparative tasting now (it may even be a "spoiler") the real pleasure in drinking is still yet to come. I give this my highest recommendation for my patient friends and customers!
Drink from
2011
to
2031
Price: $129.99
2007 Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara Pinot Noir
Review Date: 8-22-2008
Southern California Pinots and I rarely get along, they are usually a bit overripe and too pumped up with Syrah for my delicate, Champagne-loving palate, but as usual ABC has made a wine that is the exception rather than the rule. Like the great BV "Burgundy" of years past, this Pinot is blended with Monduese (24&) - a relatively obscure Rhone varietal. This has quite the opposite effect of the more common "secret" blending partner of Pinot, Syrah, and makes for a quite elegant, understated partner. The wine is translucent and raspberry colored, with a spicy, wild, natural and even a touch savory pinot nose. It has great balance on the palate and a nice medium bodied texture. At 13.5% alcohol, I promise it will go with dinner- no fire extinguisher needed! This is California Pinot Noir to be excited about, and it does not break the bank.
Drink from
2008
to
2011
Price: $19.99
2004 Phelan "Estate Grown" Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Was $70)
Review Date: 8-21-2008
This big, but natural, Napa Cab is a refreshing departure from the overwrought wines custom-made to please wine writers rather than wine drinkers. Aromatically complex, I found leather and earth mingling with the cool dark fruit on the nose. For me, it was the mid-palate that made the wine so exciting. It seems that most new Napa Cabs that I taste are so front-loaded these days, set up to overwhelm and dazzle with a huge punch initially, but the Phelan has texture and weight in the middle. It is a seamless wine and a fantastic candidate for a special occasion with a medium rare New York steak- or for an empty bin in the cellar!
Drink from
2008
to
2014
Price: $44.99
2004 Rocca di Montegrossi Chianti Classico "San Marcellino"
Review Date: 8-21-2008
Cinnamon and I just bought a case of this for our cellar. This is exactly what I want from great red wine- typicity, class, refreshment, and (I'm betting with my own money!) the ability to age. Chianti Classico is the most undervalued great red wine region in the world to me, with its only competition coming from old school Rioja. Perhaps the prices are kept low by a persisting image of straw basket bottles blended with large amounts of over-cropped Trebbiano or perhaps it is because fashion diverts attention south to the lower acid, higher tannin wines of Montalcino. Whatever the reason, I am applying my father's cellar building principal to my aggressive purchasing of these wines now- "hit 'em where they ain't"- buy great wines when they are out of fashion! This wine is tight as a tick right now, but has just the right balance of modern polish and great vineyard terroir for the long haul. The pure cherry sangiovese fruit is there, the texture is there and the length is there in spades! The 2004 San Marcellino may be the best value in cellar worthy red in our entire Italian selection, and it is going down into my cellar next to the 1999 and 2001.
Drink from
2010
to
2024
Price: $39.99
Collard-Picard Cuvee Selection Brut Champagne
Review Date: 5-21-2008
The NV Collard-Picard Cuvee Selection Brut is a blend of 80% pinot meunier and 20% chardonnay. The pinot meunier is from the Collard side of the family, from Olivier’s vineyards in the western Marne Valley. Nobody else in Champagne has such mastery over the native-to-Champagne varietal as the Collard family does. Rene’s vintage champagnes were made only in the best of years and carried on the tradition of the 19th century style of champagne. Several writers refer to those wines as being in the “British” style (truffles, cognac, sherry and caramel), though we have many Americans who shop with us who claim it as their own.
Price: $34.99
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