Staff Favorites - Chris Miller

Chris Miller

Reviews

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Ceci, "Ducati Piega"Emilia-Romagna
Review Date: 5-18-2013
Well, where do I start with this wine? I guess I should start out by saying what's in the bottle is REALLY GOOD!! A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Lambrusco, I was prepared for this wine to be okay at best, an abomination at worst. But it was rich, well balanced, varietally correct, long on the palate with a fair dollop of complexity. I was very impressed. So what's with the bottle. Well, let me start that off by saying I'm no fan of motorcycle racing, but the Italians are obsessed with it, and I'm obsessed with everything Italian, so I guess that, by extention, I am indeed a fan of motorcycle racing. "Piega" is the leaning angle of a rider as he makes a turn. 68.2 degrees is, according to Ducati, the optimum "piega", and that is the angle of the bottle/decanter. This is a bottling commissioned by Ducati from an excellent producer(Ceci) for their cafes around Italy. Yes, Ducati has cafes around Italy. (I told you they were obsessed!). Anyway, wine is great whether your into the groovy bottle or not. But chances are, you will be. CM
Price: $24.99 Add To Cart

Ceci Malvasia Frizzante Secco "Terre Verdiane" Emilia-Romagna
Review Date: 5-18-2013
I came across this wine at a Prosciutto di Parma seminar and immediately fell in love with it. I guess I should mention Italians in general have a penchant for "fizzy" wine, there refered to as "frizzante" or "vivace" (lively), and the people of Emilia-Romagna in particular LOVE it. Not only does it make an already refreshing wine even more so, it makes the wines that much more food friendly, especially with the richer, more fatty cuisine of Emilia-Romagna. Hence it's pairing with the Prosciutto. I could go on and on how much I adore and appreciate the food and wine of this part of Italy, but suffice to say this wine rocks! Lovely lime, pear blossom, jasmine and acacia flower on the nose, medium bodied with just enough spritz and acidity to make it achingly refreshing. Perfect not just with charcuterie and affitati misti, but along side a salad or pannino, or even just on it's own on a beautiful summer afternoon. CM, LA Italian wine specialist
Price: $14.99 Add To Cart

2011 Tenuta Sarno 1860 Fiano di Avellino
Review Date: 5-16-2013
This is a direct quote from my article in the February 2012 K&L newsletter; "Fiano is one of Italy’s most important white grapes, and Fiano di Avelino is one of Italy’s greatest white wines. I sincerely believe the 2009 Tenuta Sarno Fiano di Avellino could be the best Fiano I’ve ever had. There’s so much complexity to this wine, it’s hard to pinpoint the fruit. Stone fruit? Tree fruit? Tropical? There is also a smoky, slightly gamey, intensely mineral quality I find beguiling. It reminds me of a great Hermitage Blanc four to five times its price. Delicious." Well, all that said folks, I'm thinking the 2011 may be even better. So seamless and complete, just a stunning wine. My only caveat is that it could use another year or so in the bottle to really hit it's stride. You know those nature shows where you see a baby horse or deer born and it immediately gets to it's feet but is really wobbly and not really ready for what it's meant to do. That's sort of where I see this wine at this moment. It will be bounding with endless grace soon, but this wine will not last, so stock up for sure. CM
Price: $24.99 Add To Cart DC 96

2012 Giuliano Pecorino Terre di Chieti
Review Date: 5-4-2013
Pecorino is a delicious white wine from the east coast of Central Italy. It reminds me a lot of Viognier (peach blossom, apricot and yellow plum aromas) but with much more acidity and crispness on the palate. This wine would be perfect to sip well chilled on it's own as the days get progressivly warmer or with some light fare like salads, white fish, or lighter preparations of chicken (or, as would be fitting, some Pecorino cheese!). Lovely little bottle of wine and highly reccomend you check it out. CM
Price: $14.99 Add To Cart

2009 Vigne del Malina Pinot Grigio Friuli Grave
Review Date: 5-3-2013
I tasted the Vigna del Malina wines three times before I finally bought them in. Not that I didn’t love them the first time. It’s just that I can only stuff about 300 or so selections into the store, and I taste thousands of wines a year, and there’s only so much you can bring in. But on occasion number three, I had the pleasure of meeting the proprietor, Roberto Bacchetti, after which I had to make room to support his passion and commitment. This Pinot Grigio is the bomb. It spends a few days on the skins so picks up a touch of the strawberry color of the grapes when ripe (I don’t know why they call it pinot “grey”, as the grapes are pink!), and it really expresses the gravelly minerality of this part of Friuli. Rich yet lithe, it’s really just hitting it’s stride now after a couple years in the bottle. In fact, this is a white I don’t think would be very appealing to drink in the first year or so from the vintage. Lot of wine going on here for the price tag. If you have any doubts about the quality and sheer deliciousness of Italian Pinot Grigio, try a bottle of this and rock your world.
Price: $18.99 Add To Cart

2009 Vigne del Malina Chardonnay Friuli Grave
Review Date: 5-3-2013
The wines of Vigna del Malina are, for me, quintessential expressions of Friuli Grave terroir. The Grave area is a large flat expanse spreading from roughly the border with the Veneto to the Giulian Alps in the north and the mountains that form the border with Slovenia in the east. Unfortunately this is where much of the mass produced, much less exciting Friulian wine comes from, but in the hands of the right person, they can be some of the most intriguing wines of the entire region. And this is a huge statement as Friulian whites are some of the most intellectual wines in the world. It was Friulian white wine making in the early 70’s that really kick started the modern wine revolution in Italy we’re still witnessing today, and they somehow just keep getting better. Friuli lacks the breathtaking beauty of, say, the Alto Adige or the Amalfi Coast, and is not as painfully romantic as, say, the countryside around Montalcino, but it is without a doubt one of my favorite regions in all of Italy (the food can rival Piemonte). Anyway, this Chardonnay is absolutely delicious. Lots of bruised yellow delicious apple, slight under ripe pear, quince and honeycomb but reticent, vervy and hugely mineral driven on both the nose and palate. It certainly doesn’t have the opulence of a California Chard or Chassagne-Montrachet, or even a more fruit driven Pouilly Fuisse, but again, while not void of a visceral appeal, it really speaks to the intellect. Precise is another word that comes to mind. Whatever, the wine is killer, and a steal at 19 bucks. Enjoy with lighter fare like Prosciutto di San Daniele and grissini or even as an aperitif. Fantastico!
Price: $18.99 Add To Cart

2011 La Gironda "La Lippa" Barbera d'Asti
Review Date: 4-26-2013
I love this wine. Many of the Barberas these days are getting a little too serious; big, dark, extracted, overtly rich and a little to a lot of oak spice. This is what I think of when I think of Barbera however; sweet, bouncy cherry fruit, with hints of cola, sweet herbs and woodsy spice. It's so zesty and refreshing, it's hard not to gulp it. Lovely on it's own or with some lighter fare. When the temps start getting over the 90 mark, put this in the fridge for about a half hour before you pop it to accentuate it's snap. CM
Price: $14.99 Add To Cart

2008 Cantine Ascheri Barolo
Review Date: 4-26-2013
I worked with the 2006 vintage of this wine and was just stunned by the price to quality ratio. I mean, gorgeous, complex, very traditonal leaning but still juicy and round, well structured but velvety Barolo for 30 dollars? I bought all I could when I got last call on it, enough that I missed out on the 2007 vintage. The importer assured me however that the 2008 was the best of the three vintages. Naturally, that's what all importers say about the current vintage. But I went ahead and took his word for it and brought in an initial five cases then popped a bottle to see if he was right. wow, Wow, WOW!!! Was he right indeed! Much like the 2006 but with even more sweet fruit and stuffing on the mid palate. Perfectly ripe tannins and lovely overall balance. I would be thoroughly impressed with this wine at double the price. An utter steal at $29.99. Drinking beautifully now but will benefit from another 5 to 10 years in the bottle, so stuff a bunch in both the front and back of your cellar. CM
Price: $29.99 Add To Cart JS 91 WS 89

2011 Tenuta La Pergola Monferrato Rosso
Review Date: 4-26-2013
It would be hard to say Kermit Lynch doesn't have a Midas touch of sorts. After all, he's been importing some of the greatest wines France has ever produced for nearly 40 years now, and his continually expanding collection of Italian wines is one little gem after another. I knew this wine was going to be good before I tasted it. I mean, it's got his name featured prominently on the label. What I didn't know is how good, and how CHEAP! A blend of the usual Piemontese suspects (Barbera, Dolcetto, Bonarda, Freisa and Croatina) the wine bursts with bright cherry and raspberry fruit, with some light spice, a hint of earth, and a rusticity that makes it iresistable. Medium bodied with lovely, crunchy acidity that makes it perfect with a wide variety of cuisine or just sipping on it's own with a light chill. Can't say enough good things about this wine. Love it! CM
Price: $10.99 Add To Cart

2011 Bibi Graetz "Casamatta" Toscana Rosso
Review Date: 3-2-2013
I don't remember exactly when or where I first came across the wines of Bibi Graetz, but I've been a fan for close to a decade (his first wines hit the states in 2001 or 2002). This entry level offering is a stunner for the paltry price tag. Lovely, bouncy red cherry and red raspberry on the nose, the wine has a zesty fruit profile that brings to mind cru Beaujolais. Soft yet well structured tannins, nice length and depth on the palate, and a complexity that would lead me to believe this wine could be double the price makes for one heck of a Tuesday night sipper. Buy this one by the case. CM
Price: $9.99 Add To Cart WS 90

2010 Hirsch Vineyards "San Andreas Fault" Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir
Review Date: 3-1-2013
Interestingly enough, with about 5 or 6 hours left before departing to Italy for my annual buying trip, I found myself at the London Hotel in West Hollywood, at a tasting called "In Pursuit of Balance", essentially an exploration of cool climate Pinot Noir and Chardonny put on by my old buddy Raj Parr and Jasmine Hirsch. I've made no bones about finding many Califonia Pinots too overly extracted, overly oaked and just plain overly done where they're barely discernable as Pinot Noir, but I was nothing less than amazed by the across the board quality of the producers in attendance at this event. I didn't get a chance to taste this wine there, but was very impressed when we opened it here at the store. Bing cherry, hints of forest floor and spice, full bodied but elegant with fine tannins and a nice zesty streak of acidity, there is a touch of course oak on the finish that will certainly integrate with another half year or so in bottle. In fact, as well as it's drinking now, it would be very fun to watch this wine evolve over the next three to seven years. David Hirsch in undeniably a pioneer for this style of Pinot, and this wine is right in line with what he's all about. Very nice indeed. CM
Price: Hidden View Price WE 93

2010 Blason Cabernet Franc Isonzo
Review Date: 1-26-2013
I've said this before and I'll say it again: year in, year out, this easily makes my top 5 list for best-bang-for-your-buck wines in the store (and there is some stiff competition to get in the top 20!). Uber classic Cabernet Franc aromas, with all the bitter cherry, mountain berry, spice, bay leaf, coffee bean and fresh tilled earth one would expect from a high quality Chinon or Samur-Champagny, but without the tree bark and tomato stalk aromas sometimes associated with this varietal. On the palate the wine is soft, juicy and velvety while maintaining a firm tannic structure and lovely underlying acidity. Both bottles I've enjoyed thus far from this vintage (I haven't put away a case or two yet) I've popped the night before then drank the next day, and I have to say, it gets better with a good dollop of air. So while I would normally not suggest decanting an $11 bottle, give this one a good decant, if you can. Wow!
Price: $10.99 Add To Cart

2007 Sesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino
Review Date: 1-26-2013
When I visited this estate in early 2011 to taste the finished 2006's, I knew from tasting a barrel sample of the 2007 that it would be one of the best Brunelli of the vintage. What Etorre and Enrica Spina do here is just amazing. If I have half the energy and passion these two share in their late 80's in my early 50's, I'll consider myself very lucky indeed. The 2007 Brunello is stunning. Loads of rich, ripe pretty cherry fruit, red licorice, exotic spice and even a hint of black olive. The palate is incredibly dense and rich, yet at the same time maintains an almost ethereal elegance. Sweet, silky tannins with great length, breadth and persistence. Like most of the 2007's, this is drinking wonderfully now, but will probably start to really hit it's stride in another year or two. If you can't keep your hands off it (which would be completely understandable), give it at least an hour in the decanter. CM

2006 Sesta di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino Riserva
Review Date: 1-26-2013
The 2006 Sesta di Sopra Brunello Riserva is a "wow" wine. I challenge you to put your nose in a glass of this and have your brain register any other word. The extra year in wood and the hint of barrique aging (as well as an arduous selection process) have created quite a different wine than the 2006 normale. The bright cherry fruit has evolved into a more macerated cherry, black raspberry, saba like balsamic-y note, in addition to the high toned sweet spice and vanilla bean aromas. The wine explodes on the palate before settling into a rich, structured wine that coats every nook and cranny of your palate. The tannins are prevalent but ripe and in harmony with the fruit, alcohol and underlying acid. At first impression, I thought this wine was going to need sufficient time in the cellar to come together perfectly, but the more I go back to it, the more I'm thinking this wine is going to be utterly delicious and nearing it's peak (where I'm sure it will cruise for a decade or more) in the next two to three years. Miniscule amounts made so do yourself a favor and jump on a bottle of two right away, to be sure not to miss it. CM
Price: $89.99 Add To Cart RP 92

2011 Tenute Tre Monte "Vigna Rocca" Albana id Romagna DOCG
Review Date: 12-14-2012
I love this wine. I first tasted it at VinItaly this year and was very excited to see the importer had finally gotten it here. This is one that is sort of for the geeks, as it's a little unusual. First of all, the color is light tan, like weak tea. In fact, looking at it, you'd be convinced the nose would be full of fino sherry notes from oxidation. But this is simply from color pigments in the skin. The nose, on the contrary, is full of honeycomb, fresh cut flowers, apple skin and the tiniest hint of caramel. The wine is fairly full and rich, but has nice, almost crunchy minerality with a pleasant streak of acidity to give it some bounce and keep it from being dull or heavy. Just an awesome wine that would be a blast to pair with any number of dishes as it's an incredibly versitile wine. In fact, it would be a shame to have it without food. Great price too! CM
Price: $14.99 Add To Cart

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