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Staff Favorites - Bryan Brick
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2013 Bedrock Wine Company "Ode to Lulu" Rosé
Review Date: 7-17-2014
Morgan Twain-Peterson may be the most talented young winemaker in United States. How could he not be growing up in vineyards besides his well-known father, winemaker Joel Peterson (Ravenswood). Morgan has done exceptionally well in the eyes of the press, and us here at K&L, with his label Bedrock. His wines are thoughtfully crafted small production bottlings from old vines located in “Heritage” vineyards throughout California. Hard to come by, these Bedrock wines already have a loyal and rabid following that just keeps growing year after year. This year we were lucky enough to secure a solid amount of one of Morgan’s least talked-about wines in the Bedrock series, his lovely Mouvedre-dominated Rosé. This year Morgan headed to Mendocino County to find fruit from “soils that had a bit more edge in them.” Still based in old vine fruit from his estate Bedrock and Pagani Ranch, this year’s rose is bolstered by Grenache planted in the 1880s in McDowell Valley and Carignane planted in the 1950s from Ukiah. With its lovely salmon color and intriguing aromatics of fresh mint, red currant, granite and lavender this is pure rosé that is certainly in the realm of great southern French rosés yet it has more depth and structure than most. Earthy to its core with a wealth of bay leaf, anise seed and caraway over a stony core this is bone dry and screaming for food. As the wine opens, and comes up to cellar temperature, the fruit hidden away at the beginning comes out showing tart plum, white cherry and red apple skin. This is about as structural as any Bandol I’ve seen in years and just as good for a lot less money. Don’t miss out!
Sherman & Hooker's Shebang! "Seventh Cuvée" Red Blend
Review Date: 7-10-2014
Morgan Twain-Peterson may be the most talented young winemaker in United States. How could he not be, growing up in vineyards beside his well-known father, winemaker Joel Peterson (Ravenswood). Morgan has done exceptionally well in the eyes of the press, and us here at K&L, with his label Bedrock. His wines are thoughtfully crafted small production bottlings from old vines located in “heritage” vineyards throughout California. Hard to come by, these Bedrock wines already have a loyal and rabid following. But where I think Morgan really shines is in his entry level bottling: the Sherman & Hooker’s Shebang! This particular cuveé is 46% Zinfandel, 40% Grenache, 5% Alicante, 5% Petite Sirah, 4% Sangiovese and 100% delicious! A bit darker-seated than last cuveé, this has a powerful nose of black pepper, ripe black cherries and a bit of wet asphalt with a very easygoing and friendly nature. Fruity but not jammy, structured but instantly drinkable this is a steal of a wine. Briary wild berry, a return of the black pepper found on the nose, raspberry and some old leather and tobacco notes combine on the palate to really over-deliver on the $12 price tag. Year after year I keep saying it, and I’ll say it again here, there still isn’t a better value for an inexpensive red wine in the store when the Shebang is in the house.
2013 Bodkin "The Victor's Spoils - Sandy Bend Vineyard" Lake County Sauvignon Blanc
Review Date: 7-9-2014
Plain and simple I was shocked when I tasted the 2013 Bodkin "The Victor's Spoils -Sandy Bend Vineyard" Lake County Sauvignon Blanc. Why? Because in all my years in this business I can’t remember ever tasting a Domestic Sauvignon Blanc that was this close to the wines of the Loire. From the intense minerality and slight oiliness on the nose to the laser-like acidity and leafy, slate-y, grapefruit, quince and lemon rind on the palate this is a dead ringer for Sancerre or Pouilly Fume for a fraction of the cost. Hell, even some of our most Francophillic employees were raving about this wine after trying it. Seriously if you love Loire Sauvignon Blanc this is a must try, I think you’ll be as floored as I was.
2012 Charles Smith "Chateau Smith" Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Review Date: 7-3-2014
The era of deals in the realm of Cabernet Sauvignon is closing rapidly, if not all but dried up these days. I seldom see wineries or vendors looking to move Cabernet for pennies on the dollar even in difficult vintages, more less rock-solid ones. So it comes to me as some surprise that a wine like the 2012 Charles Smith "Chateau Smith" Columbia Valley Cabernet Sauvignon can still come in under $15. From the larger-than-life personality, Charles Smith (K Vintners, Charles & Charles), who is known as much for what comes out of his mouth as what goes into his bottles, this Cabernet is just a rocking deal. From the moment the big inky, chunky nose that is packed with tar, cassis, chocolate covered cherries and a touch of gravel hits your nose you’ll know that this wine is punching way over its weight class. With its plush, round, crowd-pleasing mid-palate full of blackberry, olive, mocha and black tea this is packed with flavor and is something that you just have to twist the cap off and pour without thinking too much about whether or not it is going to be appropriate, chances are high it will be the right wine for most jobs. Add some slick, polished oak in the finish and an overall feel that couldn’t be farther away from big box manipulation and this is one of the last great deals in Cabernet land.
2011 Seven Hills "Seven Hills Vineyard" Walla Walla Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
Review Date: 7-1-2014
Seven Hills has long been one of favorite Washington producers here at K&L and one of my personal faves for about as long as I’ve been in this business. This first generation Washington winery has made great wines, seemingly continuously, since its founding in 1988 in all price points and from all varietals. However I think that this winery really shines with its Cabernet Sauvignon. There is a depth, richness and texture to their wines that rivals some of the best America has to offer, yet they do it for a fraction of the cost that we’ve come to expect from Napa or even comparative Sonoma Cabs. The Seven Hills Vineyard bottling is from the “Old Blocks” on this prestige site in Walla Walla Valley and while these old blocks may not be 100 years old they are certainly mature vines of the highest quality that you’ll find in Washington. Deep, inky and powerful this wine initially comes off as a bit of a brute, however as it develops in the mouth you realize just how complex and nuanced it really is. Layers of oak toast, dried black currants, road tar and black olive are tightly woven together with a long, persistent finish. This is a wine that needs a bit of air if you want to drink it right away so make sure you have a decanter handy, but if you have the time, patience and space I can’t think of a wine right now, for this sort of value, that would be better lived in your cellar for the next 5-10 years.
2012 Evening Land Arroyo Grande Valley Chardonnay
Review Date: 6-24-2014
DEAL ALERT! Seriously if you are a lover of all things Chardonnay you will not want to miss this opportunity. A few weeks back I was presented with the 2012 Evening Land Arroyo Grande Valley Chardonnay and I thought the wine was outstanding. Made by the very popular winemaker Sashi Moorman (Miura, Stolpman, Sandhi, Stolpman) with all the fruit coming from the Talley Vineyards made the wine worth the price of admission, but what was that exactly? When I was told that we could sell this for $15.99 my only question was: “How many cases do you have and can I take them all?” With great richness and tremendous balance there is simply nothing in the world of Chardonnay that we have in stock currently that can rival its quality for the price point. Full of lively notes of golden apples, lime blossom, lemon curd and framed by a lovely streak of vanillin oak with a long woodsy finish that somehow never feels bulky this is a great wine that has a little something for everyone. Don’t miss this deal; it may be the best we’ll get on Chard all year.
2011 Pierce Ranch San Antonio Valley Graciano
Review Date: 5-29-2014
Pierce Ranch is maybe the most interesting vineyard nobody has ever heard of. In the far southern reaches of Monterey County, near Lake San Antonio and the Mission of San Antonio de Padua, the Pierce family planted mostly Spanish and Portuguese varietals over 30 acres at about 1000 feet elevation. After visiting the vineyards back in March with some co-workers from K&L we came back truly impressed with the quality of the vineyards and even more so by the shocking value of the wines. As one of the numerous grapes that are blended into Rioja to give the wines depth, bolster aromatics and add tannic structure. Rarely bottled on its own there the 2011 Pierce Ranch Graciano is really a treat for anyone that is looking for something out side of Cabernet that still offers intensity and power in a red wine. Inky in color and in its dense aromatic structure the nose is worth the price of admission alone. Electric lavender qualities are backed by bright plum and a wealth of pencil shaving notes. On entry this is surprisingly fresh with a ruddy undertone of clay and blood and a wealth of both red and black fruits. A red meat wine if there ever was one.
2011 Pierce Ranch San Antonio Valley Arinto
Review Date: 5-29-2014
Pierce Ranch is maybe the most interesting vineyard nobody has ever heard of. In the far southern reaches of Monterey County, near Lake San Antonio and the Mission of San Antonio de Padua, the Pierce family planted mostly Spanish and Portuguese varietals over 30 acres at about 1000 feet elevation. After visiting the vineyards back in March with some co-workers from K&L we came back truly impressed with the quality of the vineyards and even more so by the shocking value of the wines. One of the most unusual varietals planted there is Arinto. Arinto, most commonly found in the Portuguese regions of Vinho Verde, Alentejo and Bairrada, takes heat and humidty well and retains its naturally high acidity. In this case it leads to a sassy wine full of earth aromas and a touch of salinity. Medium weighted and floral in nature this has plenty of citrus fruits and acidity to keep your lips smacking. Add some cleansing minerality in the finish and this is a wonderful substitute to Sauvignon Blanc, Albarino or Vinho Verde.
2009 Pierce Ranch "Cosecheiro" San Antonio Valley Red Blend
Review Date: 5-29-2014
Pierce Ranch is maybe the most interesting vineyard nobody has ever heard of. In the far southern reaches of Monterey County, near Lake San Antonio and the Mission of San Antonio de Padua, the Pierce family planted mostly Spanish and Portuguese varietals over 30 acres at about 1000 feet elevation. After visiting the vineyards back in March with some co-workers from K&L we came back truly impressed with the quality of the vineyards and even more so by the shocking value of the wines. A true showcase for the multitude of “Iberian” varietals the Pierce’s have planted on their property the 2009 "Cosecheiro" is a stunning blend of 53% Touriga, 40% Tempranillo, 5% Tinta Cao and 2% Graciano. Honestly this has been one of my favorite wines to sell over the last year to our customers. The blend is so different and combines all the best things from the red table wines from the Douro/Duero valleys big, chunky fruit, wonderfully floral aromatics, structural intensity and current drinkability. Think violets, wild berry, bittersweet chocolate, black pepper and exotic baking spices and that’s sort of what you’re getting into. At $18.99 I find this to be one of the best values around with the added bonus of being one of the most “different” wines out there.
2011 Barrel 27 "Right Hand Man" Central Coast Syrah
Review Date: 5-28-2014
I know it isn’t really cool right now to say this in the wine world but I really love Syrah. The indifference from most about it has really baffled me, not to mention numerous winemakers and marketers, over the last 5-6 years. Maybe the issue, like with international Pinot Noir before it, is that it is too much of a moving target. It can be lean, spicy and meaty or rich, heavy and fruit driven. It can be just about anything but when I taste good syrah it is unmistakable. The Barrel 27 “Right Hand Man” was one of those Syrahs that there is no way anyone could miss. Leaning towards the riper side of the spectrum but still loaded with spice this wine had balance that is rare for under $20. A mélange of cola, white pepper, tar and wet asphalt combine on the forceful but pleasing nose. The juicy core of this wine shines through and delivers tangy currant and richer oak based flavors of vanilla and caramel which add the depth that most like to see in their Syrahs. Throw in a little smoky/bacon fat note in the finish and you have yourself a rock solid Syrah.
2011 McPrice Myers "Terre Blanche" White Rhône Blend
Review Date: 5-28-2014
White Rhone blends have always been difficult for me to taste and buy. Next to the wines from Tablas Creek there have been few that really have stuck here at K&L over the years. The flavor set of these wines is just something, I believe, the "American" palate just doesn't understand yet. The wealth of herbal flavors of grapes like Marsanne and Roussanne just don't hit most of our plates in a pleasing way. Often Viognier is introduced to mask those herbal components with its rich tropicality only to muddy the waters and make everything turn out clumsy. But from time to time we find something that just strikes the impeccable balance between these two sides in just the right way. The 2011 McPrice Myers "Terre Blanche" is one of those rare wines. From all Denner Vineyard fruit this has layers of lemon zest and dried mustard flower with a richer hue of magnolia blossom on the nose. Texturally rich but not oaky in any way the flavors of persimmon, kumquat and nectarine are bolstered by a lovely chaparral quality that drives the finish. A unusually great wine with a simple roast chicken and red skinned potatoes.
2011 McPrice Myers "Cremant de la Cote" Paso Robles Grenache Noir Brut
Review Date: 5-28-2014
When I saw a Domestic Sparkling wine made from Grenache Blanc and hailing from Paso Robles, of all places, I had to give it a try. I had this picture in my mind of something like Australian Sparkling Shiraz but I was completely wrong. It couldn't have been further from it. Light, delicate and with a lovely orange/pink hue to its color this was an unexpected treat. I loved how this spread out on the palate from some lees contact with a bready/cake-like aspect yet never felt blousy. White pepper, granite, custard and Rainier cherry combine forces to create something wildly new and completely different for anything I've ever had before.
2006 Clendenen "Rancho La Cuna" Santa Maria Valley Syrah/Viognier
Review Date: 5-19-2014
On a personal level, when we rediscovered the Clendenen Family wines last year the 2005 Syrah/Viognier was my favorite wine of the bunch. So I was very excited to taste the new 2006 vintage of the same wine when we visited the winery back in March. I have to say, I was a little worried that it couldn’t live up to the intensity, power and floral reserve that the 2005 had, but my fears quickly turned to joy when I tasted the 2006. Maybe a better overall wine at this stage in its life, the 2006 is full of dried lavender, cassis, menthol and a wealth of meatiness in both flavor and texture. Savory at its core and lush at the edges, this wine comes at you in waves of peppered beef, pastilles, violet and briary wild berry fruit. With all the modernizing in the Rhone Valley, both North and South, I think this wine may be more “traditional” than most Cote-Rotie on the market today. It certainly is much less expensive at the very least.
2008 Clendenen Family Vineyards "Le Bon Climat" Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir
Review Date: 5-19-2014
In the pantheon of Jim Clendenen’s Pinot Noirs there is much to choose from. None are really quite the same as the one that came before or beside it. Some may think that is overkill, I think choice is a great thing. If you want another choice in Pinot Noir from him then do I ever have something for you. The 2008 Clendenen “Le Bon Climat” Pinot Noir is classic Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir. Sage and thyme ride just beneath a lovely beam of black cherry and red current fruit on the nose. Already growing into something special this had shed its baby fat and is becoming quite a handsome wine in its early years. With a savory quality from its whole cluster fermentation and its layering of exotic spices and fruit, this is a Pinot Noir of top billing. Pomegranate, roast pork, tarragon, lavender and crushed cherry combine to flesh out this Pinot Noir and should do well to take it another 10 years if you want to be that patient. I haven’t been so far…
2012 Clendenen Family Vineyards "Le Bon Climat" Santa Maria Valley Viognier
Review Date: 5-19-2014
If I’m being honest, which I usually am, I have to say that generally speaking I hate Viognier. It just usually is too structureless and over-made for me to find any interest in the varietal. Every now and again, I’m happy to say, I find an exception to the rule. Even though this Viognier is 100% barrel fermented and undergoes full malolactic fermentation, it still has wonderful natural acidity and never strays into the realm of being overly tropical. Instead, it opts for earthy spice on the nose and balance above all else. Flavors of clementine, Meyer lemon and lime blossom fill out the broad yet focused palate and the wine wraps up with a clean, linear finish of apricot-laden stoniness. A true delight for lovers of French-styled Viognier.
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